2014 New Trekking Routes arround Annapurna: Nepal September

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                                                                Around Manang and Tilicho: September 2014

In an effort to understand the perceived problems and effects on trekking routes  in the Annapurna region caused by the recent extension of the local roads  I went to check out new treks with the man who explored the possibilities, Tripple Gurung. Check out the new route maps at the end of this blog.

As early as 1980, Karna Sakya of the Nepal Nature Conservation Society (NTNC) proposed a multi-use recreation area designed to carefully integrate tourism, basic rural development, and environmental protection.  Eventually launched in 1986, the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) is the largest undertaking of NTNC, it was also the first Conservation Area and largest protected area to be established in Nepal. In order to achieve the intended objectives ACAP, launched various initiatives through the ‘integrated conservation and development’ approach under following thematic areas:-

 

• Alternative energy promotion
• Natural resource conservation
•  Conservation education and extension
•  Gender and social inclusion
• Community infrastructure development
• Agriculture and livestock management
• Sustainable tourism management
• Heritage conservation
• Health sector support
• Research and documentation
• Meeting the Expectations of Today

A road was planned to help transport goods for the lodges and tea houses that had been developed to cater for the trekkers. These roads were never intended for the transportation of people although ultimately this has happened when the jeeps become available. A landslip at Tal has basically cut off the entry for vehicles into the ‘inner area’ but of course some vehicles were trapped on the ‘wrong’ side of the landslip and these are used in the upper region. However, don’t expect to be constantly dodging jeeps .. they seldom appear! The newly developed treks can either be completed in their own right as standalone treks or they can be used altogether to avoid the old existing north-eastern side of the circuit.

Our visit to Manang was two-fold, firstly I had had Tilicho on my ‘list’ of must dos for a long time but as so often happens some things you never get round to so when Tripple invited me along, that was just the push I needed. The idea was to go light and,        when it mattered, fast. However, it is not always possible to go fast with a man on his own patch. The second reason was to look at the new trekking possibilities.

We took the micro-bus from Kathmandu to Besisahar and then the jeep for as far as we could and in this instance that was up to Chamje. We would have gone further except for the landslip that had taken the road out. We made good progress on foot through Karte and onto Dharapani and a lunch break. At this point we left the main trail and climbed the short distance to Odar, a small village trying to develop a ‘home-stay’ industry. For those trekkers who like ‘quaint’, this is the stop over for them. Odar is one of Tripple’s old haunts so despite the community consisting of only a few houses it took us several hours and a lot of ‘hospitality’ before we could continue on our way. By the time we had staggered back to the main trail the afternoon was getting on. Then along came an over-crowded jeep, 'just what the doctor ordered' I thought, but to my surprise Tripple threw our sacks in the back and it drove off leaving us, or me at least in the middle of road in a darkening afternoon, with no sack! Another couple of house calls and then we met up with another jeep and this time we jumped on board luckily for us this put us back on track and by the evening we had managed to connect with our processions again.

 

The next day dawned bright and a bit on the early side, but a wash in the ice cold stream soon chased the last remnants of alcohol out of the system and we were on our way to Bhratang to meet up with Tripple’s brother who is developing an 800 ropani (believe me that’s big!) estate as an apple orchard, this area is well known for its apple growing potential. Part of the project consists of a small lodge and café, the main items on the menu were just about anything you could make using, yes, apples. The choice was astonishing! 

We spent a very congenial and sociable evening in the small lodge before heading on next day towards Dhikur Pokhari when we again left the main trail, this time for Upper Pisang, lunch and meeting yet another friend before pressing onto Humde with the assistance of two passing motor-cyclists, and their bikes of course. We spent the evening with Tripple’s sister-in-law before the final push into Manang and ‘my brother’s lodge. From now on I was on new territory.        

                                                                        

From the northern end of Manang the Tilicho trail breaks off to the west and before long the ‘tourist centre' is left far behind and the wilds of the more remote Annapurna region come into view. We took another tea-stop in the old community of Khangsar before pressing on up the trail towards Mursang and Tosinja. There are several new lodges along this section of the trail so for those trekkers who want to avoid the bright lights of Manang there are alternatives. The day was still young and we were now into our ‘fast and light’ phase.

The next section of the route is geographically very interesting. The hills sides are vast expanses of fine but steep and fluid scree. The path is good but there is a definite need to keep an open eye for any sign of movement, you do not want to slide down into the valley bottom, although that might be fun for the experienced scree-runner the climb back up to the path would definitely not be fun. Before long we reached Tilicho Base Camp and our overnight stop. During the

night it rained and we wondered what the precipitation would be falling as higher up towards Tilicho Lake. However the next morning dawned clear and we set a gentle but steady pace up towards the lake, the highest fresh water lake in the world and the little tea house that had only been opened a couple of days before our arrival. We spent the afternoon helping the custodians get the place ship-shape before turning in for the night. Now, this is not a lodge so under normal circumstances there is no possibility of a stop-over, that is, unless you know ‘the Man Tripple’. I got little sleep that night partly because of the snoring from the other occupants, Tripple and the two custodians, partly because I was worried about falling off my small perch and partly because I was anxious about the long day ahead, but at this point I didn’t realize just how long a day it would be. 

A 4am start, a cup of tea, a bowl of porridge and we were off in an attempt to get to Jomsom the same day.

Armed only with a litre of water, four Mars bars, an assortment of other ‘snacks’ and, as we had no camping gear, the determination to reach the lodge 24 kms and three 5000+ metre passes away before night fall. As we got under way dawn was just breaking but it would be at least another hour before the warmth of the sun penetrated our bodies. The stream at Tilicho Khola Base Camp was wide, swiftly flowing but the rocks were thick with verglas, care was needed to avoid the embarrassment not the mention the bruises of a slip into the very cold water. The climb up to high camp was a lung buster in the early morning cold air. Once at the top the way ahead is gentle but route finding is not easy and great care must be taken to avoid the steep gully that would literally drop you into the lake at its northern end. The path stays high and contours over the Eastern Pass from which you can trace its line to the last pass, the Mesakanto La (north) From here it is down-hill all the way, as they say.  The initial descent from the Mesakanto La is down a very steep scree slope which is north facing so is likely to be icy under normal conditions. The whole day is acted out under the watchful eyes of Dhaulagiri in the distance to the west. Once into the lower hills the trail goes on, and on and on. Unfortunately for us, well me, we had chosen the week before Dashain and all the local tea house owners had left their post to attend their family gatherings. We eventually arrived at Tripple’s Om’s Home Lodge in Jomsom at nearly 7pm.

I spent a couple of days getting body and soul back together before catching the first flight to Pokhara and then the first Tourist Bus back to Kathmandu arriving home on the same day that I left Jomsom.

So the upshot of all of that, apart from having a really good trip into some still remote areas around Annapurna in good company, was a better understanding of the possibilities of doing an Annapurna Trek without getting buzzed by jeeps every two minutes, which is a great misconception.

Think about the following, but don’t give up on what this region still has to offer.

                            

1. Tal to Manang via Phu and Nar Seven Passes Trek 19 days

2. Tal via Dharmasala round to the ACAP check post at Dharapani Rhododendron Trek  8 days

 3. Tal (as above) continuing on to Meta Yarcha Trek 7 days

4.  Koto via Phu, the Nar Pass, Nar, Kangla La and onto Manang Circuit Trek 11 days

Detailed routes can be found on the Annapurna and Manang - Seven Passes Annapurna Circuit map

                                                                Thanks Tripple Gurung