2013 The Nepal Mountaineering Association - the first 40 years

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A Celebration of 40 Years of The Nepal Mountaineering Association

                                   Extracts from an article first published in Nepal Parbat in 2013

                    

                                                                       1973 – 2015

                                                                Complied by Ian Wall

Role of Honour

 Presidents of the Nepal Mountaineering Association

Kumar Khadga Bikram Shah 1973 - 1990

Tek Chandra Pokhrel 1990 - 1992

Dawa Norbu Sherpa 1993 - 1997

Acting President Sonam Galbu Sherpa 1997 - 1999

Tashi Jangbu Sherpa 1999 - 2002

Ang Tshering Sherpa 2002 - 2005

Ang Tshering Sherpa 2005 - 2008

Government Task Force Intervention 2008 - 2009

Ang Tshering Sherpa was again president for 6 months while a new Board Election was held

Zimba Zangbu Sherpa 2010 - 2013

Ang Tshering Sherpa 2013 – to date

The Beginning

During the 1960s expeditions travelling to Nepal had little choice when it came to enlisting the help of established in-country agents. Only the 'Himalayan Society' was in a position to offer advice and help, however, this was to be abolished before 1970. The focus then moved to a new association that would represent Nepali climbers working on expeditions, many of whom were dying from the results of altitude sickness and other mountain related illnesses but this drew little interest and was disbanded without actually coming into existence.  

In 1969 Aleš Kunaver, leader of the Yugoslav Annapurna Expedition, concluded that as 'the classical period of Himalayan climbing had ended and that the new wave of expeditions were focusing on the giant Himalayan faces and many of the Sherpa people that had been underpinning international expeditions would get left behind in the new technical era of big face climbing without the development of new skills’. Aleš identified a need for establishing a mountaineering school that could provide training.

The 1973 Italian Everest Expedition first established contact with the Himalayan Society in the late 1960s but it soon became very obvious that there was a language problem.  Shambhu Tamang went to Italy to learn the language and during his stay in the Aosta Valley (1969 and 1972) Tamang developed an interest in mountaineering and made many ascents in the Alps with his new friends and Chamonix guides. Tamang later joined the Italian expedition as a climber, he also supported the idea of an association that would foster the skill development and welfare of Nepali climbers. Summiting Everest at the age of 16 years Shambhu Tamang became the youngest Everest Summiteer, at that time, and in doing so unwittingly started the trend of 'record setting'.

During the Panchayat era it was impossible to establish any organisation without getting royal approval. At the suggestion of Yalav Kant Silwal, who worked at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs,Tamang and Nityaman Singh went to visit Kuma Khadga Bikram Shah who was, at that time, in Tarkeyghang, Helambu escorting Diplomats, although not a mountaineer he was regarded as a good all round sportsman. By 1973 other people had shown an interest in developing an association for Nepali mountaineers and subsequently a general meeting was called. The meeting was supported by Government ministers along with senior members of the army and police, these services were represented because in those days expedition Liaison Officers were appointed from their ranks. 

T.C. Pokhrel had been chairman of the Nepal Association of Travel Agents (NATA) and had been instrumental in establishing the Himalayan Rescue Association in 1973, thus he was a contender for a position in any new organisation that was likely to be formed. Eventually an ad-hoc committee was established chaired by Kuma Kandga Bikram Shah with T.C. Pohkrel as Secretary, Nityaman Singh as Treasurer and Kazi Lama and Shambhu Tamang as general members.

T.C. Pokhrel, Tshering Tenzing Lama and Dr Harka Gurung are credited as being the main influential characters behind defining the NMA's overall mission and in setting the goals. This road map was then handed over to successive Presidents and management teams all of whom have stamped their authority of approval on NMA development and this has ultimately led to the realisation of those earlier dreams coming to fruition.

Kuma Khadga Bikram Shah 1973 – 1990

The NMA came into being on the 1st November 1973 with Kuma Khadga Bikrum Shah as the first President, Tshering Tenzing Lama as First Vice President and T.C. Pokhrel as Second Vice President.  It is believed the President played more of a 'figure head' role while much of the administration and running of the NMA was left to the Board members. By 1977 Pokhrel was the secretary of NMA and president of HRA, TAAN was also established at that time with all organisations being administered from the Trans Himalayan Tours, Durbar Marg offices. 

In 1978 Dr Harka Gurung, Chairman at the Minister of Tourism, and the Government passed over 18 peaks, under 7000 meters, to the NMA so that they could administer the peak permits as a way of generating funds for the newly formed organization, these later become known as the Trekking Peaks of Nepal, and are now identified as those peaks on the 'B' list of trekking peaks, the peak permit was 250 US $ but, the Garbage Deposit was not levied in those days. 

After the NMA became a member of the UIAA in 1979, the first mountaineering training course was delivered in partnership with Aleš Kunaver and the Slovenian Alpine Association at Mountaineering Training School at Manang. The present School premises were completed in 1982 when the NMA entrusted the Ecole Nationale de Ski et d' Alpinisme (ENSA) with the organisation of a second level of 'advanced training courses' while three Nepali trainees were sent to Chamonix, France for Diploma level mountaineering training; Padam Singh Galley, subsequently became Nepal's first fully recognised Mountain Guide while Tashi Jangbu Sherpa and Zimba Zangbu Sherpa went on to become future NMA presidents. 

Manang was initially chosen as it was a less developed area where the people knew little about mountaineering, unlike in the Sherpa regions, but there are several mountains in the area that were identified as suitable for training purposes and finally the region is in the rain shadow thus providing reasonable weather during the wet and traditionally ‘off’ season. After 1990, and due to both trainer and trainee pressure, the venue changed to Langtang as it was easier to reach from Kathmandu. The Mountaineering School at Manang has been pivotal in the NMA's development of new courses and the raising of standards in line with international training and qualifications. This has been complimented by the fact that since 1992 two or three competent trainees have been invited to Chamonix each summer for additional and complimentary training. In 1979 Shambhu Tamang, along with Sonam Gyalzen, became the first Nepali climbing instructors to be involved in the training of young Nepali guides. Tamang and Singh were part of the Karelung expedition which failed on that objective, but, then made a successful ascent of Kwangde. Sadly Nityaman Singh died of AMS in Lukla during his return to Kathmandu. 

In 1981 the NMA Board together with a 35 member NMA Council are credited with bringing the Union of International Alpine Associations (UIAA) to Nepal where they held their first convention outside of Europe. It is now acknowledged that this event was to prove to be a major milestone in raising not only internal interest in the mountains, but also an awareness of how the economic value of the mountains of Nepal was increasing. As a result of this convention 'The Kathmandu Declaration on Mountain Activities' was created; a code that is accepted by mountaineers all over the world and is still recognised as a significant event in the development of mountain related activities. In essence this Declaration is aimed at promoting mutual international support, understanding, sharing of knowledge and an ethical approach to the mountain environment, its people, culture and religions across the world. 

Dr Harka Gurung is recognised as being the first and only native Nepali chronicling the mountains and mountaineering in Nepal at that time. He is famously quoted as saying "In Nepal, those who climb do not write and those who write do not climb". At this time the NMA conceived the idea of establishing an International Mountain Museum and anticipated that this would be built on land provided by the government at Kakani. However, on the 4th August 1985 one hundred ropanies of land was purchased in Pokhara by the NMA for 1,000,000 NRs. this purchase was funded by the government. 

In 1988 the Tri Nations Everest Expedition took place with joint teams from China, Japan and Nepal simultaneously reaching the top on the 5th May before traversing the summit and descending down to the north and south cols respectively, subsequently Norburu Yamada (Japanese), Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa (Nepalese) and Cerni Doji (Chinese) had their summit ascent televised by Nippon TV which then transmitted live coverage around the world. Shumbhu Tamang was deputy climbing leader.

Tek Chandra Pokhrel 1990 - 1992

It was from the Trans Himalayan - NMA Office that Basanta Thapa was responsible for the issuing of the NMA “BLUE BOOK” to a) Sirdar b) climbing Sherpa c) cook and d) mail runner; this ‘licence’ is still being used today. 

In 1990 the NMA invited new members to broaden its appeal, many of these came from unlikely quarters and it was believed this move was politically motivated. 

Once the first cluster of 'trekking peaks’ had been securely established as an income generating initiative it was suggested that the NMA should look for a permanent office so as to develop a central meeting point where mountain scholars could meet with mountain climbers; to institutionalize the NMA. The administrative work load was increasing and it was suggested that the NMA should consider a full time Office Secretary, Nabin Man Singh was selected,s the younger brother of Narsing Man Sing, the then Treasurer.  

From the Trans Himalayan Tours, the NMA’s office moved to Putali Sadak (Ramshah Path) and then to Hattisar before the present premises were located and subsequently purchased under the watchful eye of Santa Subba who was Coordinator of the committee formed to oversee the purchase which was concluded on 13 January 1992.

T.C. Pokhrel resigned from the position of President before his term of office officially finished as a result of internal tussles within the Board. Other office bearers also tendered their resignations; this subsequently resulted in government intervention. The Ministry of Tourism formed an ad-hoc committee and it functioned during the interim period between Pokhrel’s resignation and Dawa Sherpa’ election as president for a period of about one year. 

Dawa Norbu Sherpa 1993 - 1997

At the time concern was being raised over the amount of discarded equipment and other expedition waste that was not only being tipped into glaciers, but that was also being discarded at high altitude as well as at base camp sites. The NMA instigated a Mountain Environment Cleaning Campaign. Many climbers participated in those early projects, particularly those initiatives held to clean the higher camps on Everest. This initiative is in fact still being carried out to this day by various commercial as well as NGO organisations. The government originally helped the NMA with the purchase of the land in Pokhara, but, with little sign of development the Pokhara CDO contacted the NMA saying that the land, initially intended as the site for a Tibetan Refugee development, would be reclaimed by the Development Committee and used for the construction of a prison unless the NMA was quick to develop it. After lengthy discussions the Executive Board decided to modify the Museum plans intended for Kakani and to develop the Pokhara site for the purpose. This was done not only to safeguard the site, but also to safeguard NMA finances from possible political use as at that time various political parties were looking for land on which to settle their supporters. 

The first phase of the project started with the laying of the foundation stone by the Honourable Minister for Tourism Mr Chakra Prasad Bastola on the 1st November 1995. The proposed new building was designed to be dual purpose, that of a museum and also of a exposition venue. This construction would be the biggest covered multipurpose building in Nepal and would provide the opportunity to host international events with vehicular access to the ground level and disabled and light electric vehicle access to the upper level. 

In the spring of 1995, the NMA secured an additional 15 new trekking peaks from which additional income could be generated thus bringing the total number of trekking peaks in Nepal and under the jurisdiction of the NMA, to 33 and all requiring a Peak Permit.

Sadly Dawa Sherpa died before the end of his Presidential term. This threw the NMA into confusion and acting President Sonam Galbu Sherpa was elected to take the helm from 1997 - 1999 until the next Presidential elections could be arranged. At this time there was great upheaval within the senior management of the organisation with many factions being politically driven; to find a new President who did not have alternative political motives was not easy.

Tashi Jangbu Sherpa 1999 - 2002

The International Mountain Museum project was kicked started but in America the disaster of the Twin Towers had shaken the world and, closer to home, the Insurgency and the Royal Massacre, had a devastating effect on domestic life, both societies were reeling with shock and uncertainty. Many members felt that the NMA was in danger of collapsing, the late President has passed away and projects that had just started were in danger of remaining unfinished.

At this time many UIGM member countries were opposed to Nepal being included as it was not a skiing nation and did not have developed ski resorts or related activities, an element of the scheme that was of upper most importance to the international alpine membership at that time. However, Tashi Sherpa developed the Nepali French relationship through the French Ambassador in Kathmandu and with the French Government through his ENSA connections. The French were then agreeable to supporting Nepal in joining the UIGM and worked hard to persuade other UIGM member countries to look favourably on Nepal's application. 

In preparation for the high profile Museum opening a Souvenir Shop had been built into the upper level. Once the majority of displays were ready a soft opening was held on the 29th May 2002 at which the Honourable Minister for Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation, Mr Bal Bahadur KC, Ms Junko Tabei and Appa Sherpa were present, Sudarsn Karki filmed the event.

The celebrations associated with the first ascent of seven of Nepal's 8000 meter peaks, Annapurna's anniversary had recently passed, were being discussed. This would be a critical period in which everyone would be looking to Nepal, a golden opportunity to make a lasting impression. It could also, if it failed, do a considerable amount of damage to Nepal in the eyes of the rest of the world, the pressure was mounting and the opportunities to get it all wrong were great. The celebrations were to be funded from the NMA's Peak Permit account and The Everest Marathon was born.

Ang Tshering Sherpa 2002-2008 and then for six months, post Task Force management 2010

Ang Tshering Sherpa had also been an Executive Member and a 1st Vice President of the NMA. The Right Honourable Prime Minister Mr Surya Bahadur Thapa officially opened the International Mountain Museum on the 5th of February 2004. The total project had cost over 100 million NRs which not only included the purchase of the land and construction of the building but also the landscaping, assess road, compound walls and the construction of the living museum. Today the Museum completely covers its own operational costs.

A joint Nepal-China expedition was organised to climb an unclimbed, peak of 5690m situated on the border of the two countries to commemorate 50 years of their diplomatic relationship the peak was officially named Nepal China Friendship Peak to honour the occasion. On the 26th October 2006 five members from Nepal and two members from Japan successfully summated Nangpai Gosum 7321m as part of the Japan - Nepal Joint Expedition to celebrate 50 years of their diplomatic relations.

In 2002 the Nepal Mountain Instructors Association (NMIA) was formed, however, in 2005 the Nepal National Mountain Guides Association, in short the NNMGA was created from the Nepal Mountain Instructors Association (NNMIA). It was this organisation that was chosen by the UIAGM to become the future association of guides that would be integrated into its ranks. After Japan, Nepal was the second country in Asia to be accepted as a candidate member for the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA).

Government Task Force Intervention 2008 - 2009

This was the second intervention by the government, the first being at the time of Tek Pokhrel’s resignation. By 2008 Nepal had experienced two years of post political insurgency which had resulted in many different political factions all sparing for recognition and power. This new 'flexing of political muscle' split the NMA and in 2008 the general membership caused the NMA to be locked down, the Executive Elections were disrupted; finally the Executive Board was forced to resign. The government formed a Task Force, initially under the leadership of Ang Tshering Sherpa but again this was beset by political problems. At this point the government stepped in and formed a new Task Force under the leadership of a government officer to run the NMA for approximately another 12 months. Ang Tshering Sherpa was reinstated and given the challenge of organising and running the 2010 Executive Board elections and the Golden Jubilee celebrations.

Golden Jubilee Celebrations 2010

In 2010 with all the 8000m peaks climbed their golden jubilees were to be celebrated in great style in Nepal, with the exception of Annapurna whose golden jubilee took place prior to that period. The organisation of these celebrations were very complex with dignitaries flying in from all around the world at a time when the political situation in Nepal was far from stable. This event is today regarded as one of the NMA's most significant achievements and a magnificent 'swan song' on which Ang Tshering would end his term as NMA President (or so it was thought). Ang Tshering also sits on the UIAA Mountain Protection Committee.

 Zimba Zangbu Sherpa 2010 - 2013

Zimba Zangbu Sherpa started his mountaineering career as a porter for Trans Himalayan Tours and he was one of the first three Nepali mountaineers to be trained on the ENSA course. In 2010 a Nepalese Bangladeshi Friendship Expedition made the first successful ascent of Chekrigo 6257m when seven of the team consisted of Nepali climbers with four of those being Nepali women.

In Tourism Year 2011 he chaired the committee responsible for bringing the second UIAA General Assembly to Nepal at the request of the NMA, 30 years after the first convention took place. In very recent times the Petzl Foundation and the UIAA have accepted the standards of guide training given by Nepalese instructors and now all guide training in Nepal is provided by Nepalese trainers.

Ang Tshering Sherpa 2013 - date

Ang Tshering Sherpa was again elected to the post of President of the NMA in October 2013. During his first year he had to oversee the repercussions of the tragic Everest Avalanche during the 2014 spring season and then the Annapurna trekking incident in the autumn season of 2015.

Welfare

The welfare of Nepali citizens involved in mountaineering was a cornerstone of the association when it was formed in 1973. However, it was not until 1995 that the Welfare Fund received official recognition when 15 Lakhs were donated into the fund by the NMA, this has been added to annually and now stands at 50 Lakhs. In 2003 Shumbhu Tamang was provided with a bonus of 75,000 NRs for his contribution to the Italian Everest Expedition and the fact that at that time he was the youngest Everest summiteer, he returned this donation to the NMA to help establish a second Welfare Fund.  Initially this scholarship was to allow children to progress to Class 10, however, this has now been raised to cover education up to Class 12. In 2013 the first child to receive this scholarship will graduate. So far 20 children have benefited from this welfare fund.

Publications

In 1987 the 'Nepal Himal' first appeared under the editorial eye of Basanta Thapa. This was superseded in 1992 by the 'Nepal Mountaineering Association News Bulletin'. The News Bulletin was later named 'Nepal Parbat' the first edition appeared in 2001. On the 12th February 2006 the NMA E-newsletter was launched initiated by Mr Deebas Birkram Shah, the first e-news appeared in March 2006. 

Twenty-three Expedition Peaks and thirty-three Trekking Peaks

On the occasion of the diamond jubilee of the ascent of Mt Everest on May 29, the Government of Nepal opened 23 new peaks for expeditions. The 33 Trekking Peaks produce an annual income of more than 5 crore NRs in the form of 500 S $ from the 'A' listed peaks and 350 US $ from the 'B' listed peaks for the NMA. 

Membership

From humble beginnings when the NMA could only boast 30 - 40 members by March 2013 this had risen to 10 Institutional Members, 14 Honorary Members, 02 Life members, 910 Associate members, 828 General Members, 1285 Sardar, 3743 Senior Support Climber, and 5667 Support Climbers.

It must be remembered that an organisation such as the NMA cannot be run by Presidents alone, there are a large number of other personnel involved some on a voluntary basis and some as paid members of the administration team.

And so to the Future?

Many of the people that have helped and contributed to this article have all expressed concern over common themes within the NMA. With the elections for a new NMA board not that far away is there likely to be any changes in this situation? If there is, will it be for the better or for the worse? 

The government has plans to extend the opening of 23 new peaks in Nepal for mountaineering with the aim of creating new destinations. However, in view of the remoteness of others areas apart from those tried and tested regions of Everest, Langtang, Manaslu and Annapurna access will surely be a significant hurdle for possible expeditions to overcome. New destinations will not get developed unless there is a proven need, and to prove the need then there needs to be good access. People, in general, who have the money don't have the time and those with the flexibility of time don't always have the money.

The mountains unite people from different walks of life, with different political persuasions and different religions.  Friendships are made on the mountains and people give their lives to help others, and in the case of many Nepali citizens, to help foreigners achieve their goals for their own personal gratification. 

Would it now not be a prudent move to leave all differences, political or otherwise at the door of the NMA so that all those who enjoy the sanctity of the majestic Nepal Himalaya can exist in harmony for the love of the mountains and for the camaraderie that they offer every man and woman whose lives are inextricably linked through them and the NMA?

Acknowledgement

A great deal of my research and ultimate guidance on the planning of this article was based on earlier editions of Nepal Parbat, however the real support and background history has been provided from several different sources and I should like to acknowledge and thank all those people who have helped in the compilation and the editing of this article, namely,  Basanta Thapa, Tashi Jangbu Sherpa, Girdhari Sharma, Ang Shumbu Tamang, T.C. Pohkrel, Tsering Sherpa, Zimba Zangbu Sherpa, Deebas Birkram Shah, Jinesh Sindurakar and the present and past Board members,NMA office staff in Kathmandu, Mr Bal Prasad Rai and his team in the International Mountain Museum, Pokhara.

I conclude by congratulating the NMA on reaching its 40th Anniversary and wishing it a long, peaceful and productive future serving those Nepalese climbers and mountaineers involved in working in one of the most beautiful mountain environments in the world.

.

2012 An Off the Wall Trek, Phu Nepal

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A short trek to Phu

In November 2012 I accompanied two journalists to Phu as research for articles they were commissioned to write for their respective travel magazines. The following is part of the article written by Jack Dyson for the Financial Times.

Forty years ago, or so the story goes, the King of Nepal took a tour of his borders in a small plane, quite literally surveying his realm. Near the Tibetan border, flying over the vertiginous foothills of the Himalaya, he passed over a craggy valley and was surprised to see a small community that wasn’t on his map. Virtually impossible to get to except by an arduous trek and untouched by the modern world, when they eventually reached it by foot, his surveyors found that the miniature Shangri-La went by the name of Phu.

Fast forward a few decades and now a permit is required to visit the area allowing a limited number of trekkers to split off from the main Annapurna trail and to walk up the Nar-Phu valley. If you get the chance to go, you don’t stop to ask anything other than; “how soon?”

Just getting there is an unforgettable journey – either a 40-minute chopper flight or a four-day walk to the start point at Koto.We leave Kathmandu by helicopter and head to the Annapurna range (which includes the dizzying Thorong La pass). The pilot shoots towards steep slopes, terraced farms slotted in on seemingly impossible nooks and crannies; we fly up and over ridges, as forests rise and fall below. Finally, we race up a gorge, waterfalls on either side, before swooping down to Koto – our starting point for the five-day trek.

The combination of altitude and an utterly new environment makes for quite a culture shock. I’ve swapped my jeans, shoes and the noise of London for the rustle of an Arc’teryx jacket, new walking boots and the gentle chatter of hikers who have already spent several days on the trail. 

We camp then start walking early the next morning. Koto is at around 2,600m, high enough to be classified as being, medically, at extreme altitude (the summit of Ben Nevis is 1,344m). It’s a curious mix of flora: bamboo sits with fern, most trees are silver birch and pine. Accompanied by a wheeling hawk, our pace is pistari, pistari (slowly, slowly) as we adjust to the thin air and rocky track. “Breathing dictates pace, not the other way around,” says our guide, Ian, so we take our time, sometimes overtaking the porters carrying our tents and cooking gear, sometimes letting them trudge past us.  

The river's sculpted rocks below us, worn impossibly smooth as the milky white water gushes through and over them. The scale is monstrous; it’s tricky to tell distance, where mountain peaks begin and cliff tops end. After a few hours we stop by the side of the trail for cauliflower curry and chapatti, washed down with hot lemon juice and mug after mug of sweet black tea – delicious fuel for the afternoon’s walking. 

Next day the going gets much harder; not the vertiginous drops or the trail itself, but getting used to the air. I’m admiring the view when Ian shouts a warning to get off the path. A team of donkeys with bells around their necks and backpacks is barrelling towards me. I follow his advice and cling to a rock – it’s easy to get tipped off the edge. We’ve two more hours’ trek to that night’s campsite, Singenge Dharamsala, at 3,200m and really just two shacks and a little flat ground. The sherpas share the tea houses, lighting smoky fires, and after dinner we go to our tents beneath a riot of stars.
 

It’s a steep climb out of Dharamsala, but then the whole valley opens like a flower as the path takes us above the gorge and high enough to find old terraced land on the plateau above the river. In the distance are the great snowy peaks of Tibet, a good two days’ walk from here. The trail is a constant revelation, like being inside a mandala, with something new at each turn. Our camp that night, Kyang, a hanging valley at 3,870m, is a deserted settlement, which I clamber around before it gets too dark. Hours later I wake to relieve myself and find the whole plateau wreathed in mist under a full moon. I feel like the only man in the world. 

The rocks have an extraordinary strata running through them, great whorls formed by the tectonic plates pushing together; where shafts of sunlight break through the high passes, these formations become variegated by the play of light and shade from other, unseen, mountains, painting the rocks across the valley a wonderful gold in the dawn light.

Next day we meet some French trekkers, also on their way to Phu. Where British walkers can be quite taciturn, this group, old Annapurna hands, are transported by what they are seeing, eyes shining with excitement at the next leg to Phu. As a first-timer here, it’s good to know that we haven’t missed anything, that we’re not alone in being blown away by the extremity of the place. 

The last push up to Phu is not that far; but it is, for me at least, pretty scary. The path is literally carved into the vertical rock and continues up high into the cliff face. Just as we come to the end of a particularly tricky scramble, we round the corner and the ground seems to drop away. I’m used to pavements below me, not narrow paths and sheer drops. I start to walk a bit like an old lady. But it’s alright – great, in fact – because following each ascent there’s another breathtaking view, makeshift altar or deserted monastery.

After just a few hours, we reach the village via an easy stretch alongside the grey river. It’s like stepping back in time. We cross a suspension bridge and ascend the steep hillside. Low stone houses are surrounded by stacks of firewood, prayer flags flutter on every roof with the eaves of the houses painted red or blue. We could easily be in Tibet. For a quiet village, there’s a surprising amount going on. While the porters make camp, I wander through alleyways and over rooftops, finding a small gompa, with statues of Buddha, paintings and offerings – quiet places for prayer. 

Standing on the top of the highest house, puffing slightly in the thin air at 4,000m, we have a fantastic panorama spread out below us, playing scenes that can’t have changed for hundreds of years. Children run yelling along dirt paths, two men struggle to get their yak to plough straight, a couple of oldies sit on a step spinning prayer wheels and gossiping, a monk stands outside one of the temples and stretches lazily in the sun, a goat grazes on a sheer rock face, women shout from one side of the valley to the other. Time stands still. I’m accosted by four or five grinning children, who take it in turns to poke me and yell, “What is your name? Where are you from?”, in a harmless and hilarious interrogation. 

The next day’s walking is hard. We make good time, but perhaps because I feel a bit less in control with gravity behind me, or perhaps because I’m feeling unsteady from the altitude, what was scary the day before is petrifying now. When we stop for the day, I’m looking ropey enough for Ian to slip me a Diamox to help with the altitude. I wait in my tent for it to kick in. The next morning I feel a hundred times better. Each step of descent pumps more oxygen into my blood. I’ve lost the light-headedness I’ve had since we started, and the drops don’t seem quite so perilous – I can finally look down a bit as well as across. 

Seasons reverse as we come down from the sky walk, taking less than a day and a half to descend what took three days to climb. In the valley, bare trees become autumnal, then green. There’s moss in the crags, and towering silver birch trees hold the gravelly path together. Back under the waterfall and over the bridge with the hole in it; it’s like traversing a fairy kingdom. And the fragrances – not just juniper but thyme as well, leafy and foresty, fantastic! I feel supercharged from all the rich air – a sensation that lasts a good few weeks after I get back. 

Back in Kathmandu I spend my last day in Nepal wandering around the beautiful Swayambhunath Stupa, an important site for Buddhists and Hindus that dates back to at least the fifth century. Drinking in the atmosphere, I plan further explorations in this amazing country – bone-tired, but with a huge sense of accomplishment, and a strong sense of clarity from the high, empty mountains; determined not to leave it long before I return.