Saturday 16 April 2016

2016 Off the Wall Newsletter April 10






This might seem a step removed from our usual banner image. There is more than one way to report the news and current affairs but sadly reporting the way the BBC, CNN and other major media institutions did caused more damage and hardship to Nepal than the earthquake ever did, not to mention the FO travel advise.
A regular sight around the KAthmandu Valley during the time of the Black Market
As a result of the alleged Indian ‘blockade’ this bus was carrying 30 blue plastic barrels each containing 60 litres of petrol above possibly 26+ passengers driving the roads between the capital and the India border. And there were hundreds of these busses making multiple daily journeys, but hundreds more working normally and life was going on as normal in the rest of Nepal - that was never mentioned.

On February 6th 2016, trucks crossed the Birgunj-Raxaul border both from Nepal into India and from India into Nepal. That was the first time for more than five months that essential supplies had begun to move between the two countries. Blockades and disruption in the Terai are not new, in 1990 the last big blockade lasted for 18 months but never has a blockade been imposed at such a critical time for Nepal as this one just when Nepal was trying to recover from the 2015 earthquakes and of course way back in 1990 things were very different. Petrol, diesel, and liquid petroleum gas (LPG) began to reach distribution depots inside of Nepal, yet and only now, at the beginning of April, is Mr. Average only just seeing any improvement in supply. Is this the state of things to come? 
I have just returned to Nepal after spending March in the UK. While in Ambleside, just before Easter I was speaking with staff in a local climbing equipment shop. They had the same complaint, the press had, in its reporting capacity given out ‘misleading’ information that led to many potential Easter Lakeland visitors assuming that the whole of the Lake District was under water and making alternative plans. Tourist numbers were expected to be down.

Many people took the opportunity to cash in
The Smuggler Army, a band of mostly unemployed poorly educated people living in the Terai were running the gauntlet for the more powerful, wealthy and unscrupulous men further north. The sale of bicycles went up as tens of thousands of men, women and children cycled into India to fill up plastic ‘jerry cans’ at filling stations only to cycle back into Nepal and onto Bardibas, a small town on the Nepal side of the border. Here the fuel was loaded onto busses, along with passengers and transported into Kathmandu, usually in the middle of the night, but as the black market took hold this ‘smuggling’ became less ‘under-cover’ and you could regularly see busses piled high with containers of petrol passing through the main routes of Nepal and the Kathmandu Valley.
In mid-January, the National Human Rights Commission estimated about 150,000 litres of fuel, almost a fifth of Nepal’s daily demand in petrol flowed into Nepal daily through the village of Thori, in Parsa, alone.
The smuggling was blatantly obvious to all. The Terai zone police office (Rajendra Regmi spokesman) agedly made a statement acknowledging the police’s blind-eye to the situation `If the government can’t fulfil its responsibility [of providing fuel], we don’t want to make people’s lives harder’; just being public spirited or was there money involved? Now the blockade is over and tankers are again crossing the border the black market crashed. Yet there was still no fuel in Kathmandu, why?

The supply chain starts here
Nepal’s thirst for petroleum products is increasing at an alarming rate. In the fiscal year 2004–5, the Nepal Oil Corporation (NOC) imported 76,097 kiloliters of petrol. Ten years later, this had risen more than threefold, to 287,473 kiloliters. Worth approximately USD 2.76 billion, the petrol market alone accounts for 14 percent of the national economy. The import of diesel and liquid petroleum gas tells a similar story of rapidly rising consumption. This huge market is dominated by the state-owned NOC, which has a monopoly on the import and distribution of all petroleum products, which it obtains from the Indian Oil Corporation. End-users obtain petrol and diesel from a network of approximately 850 petrol pumps and dealers, both private and state-owned, including those belonging to security agencies, which fall under the NOC’s regulatory authority.
After the beginning of the blockade, traffic in Kathmandu, which consumes 50 percent of all petrol, was initially drastically reduced. But a month into the blockade and Kathmandu’s familiar traffic jams were back, it was hard to believe that there was any scarcity in the capital. But smuggled petrol only represented part of the story. Despite attempts from the ‘Morcha’ to completely halt supplies through Biratnagar and other entry points, they succeeded only in Birgunj. The blockade was thus never total, and imports were sufficient to fulfil about a third of the total petrol demand.  

So if the petrol was arriving in Nepal and the capital where was it all going? Some of the officially imported petrol went to the public through a rationing system. Private vehicles periodically received petrol and diesel at the official rate, cars were allowed 15 litres, motorcycles 4 litres. For most people, this involved collecting tokens early in the morning and then queuing at petrol stations for long hours, often the entire day. But not everyone had to wait. Individuals with sifaris (letters of recommendations from “higher up,” typically from a ministry) were allowed to jump the queue.
Fuel coming in via the Shabrubesi road via Kerung
At a police-run petrol station in Kathmandu, on January 29, the distribution of petrol to 300 queuing vehicles took over nine hours because additional cars and motorcycles kept cutting into the first 20 meters of the queue pushing everybody further back from the pumps.
Tempers frayed but the policeman in charge simply shrugged his shoulders. “There are so many ministers, as well as their brothers, sisters, nieces, and nephews. Don’t bother complaining to the akhtiyar [the Commission for the Investigation of Abuse of Authority]—I can show you a list with hundreds of names of their staff, as well as their relatives.”  

While NOC officially provided regular fuel to ministers, influential people (under a “VIP quota”), and schools and hospitals, unofficially, it also supplied aides of the prime minister, and ministers’ personal secretaries, family and friends. On January 25th, over the course of an hour at NOC headquarters, more than forty individuals entered the office of the chief of supply and distribution, and emerged with sifaris letters.

A share of the NOC’s petrol also found its way into the black market, although it is hard to specify how
Domestic flights restricted in Kathmandu
much but millions of dollars were made by some people from this situation. Those with NOC ties were able to channel whatever fuel entered Nepal to their preferred petrol pumps, which then found its way to the black market. In November, ten stations in Kathmandu were closed on charges of illegally distributing NOC provided fuel. The chief district officer responsible for the crackdown, Ek Narayan Aryal, who had previously been awarded by the government for his integrity, was transferred in early December, allegedly for trying to rein in the black market.

“It expanded like organized crime,” Aryal said at a briefing with CIAA officials in November. He reported that seven petrol pumps had been closed on charges of supplying the black market, and 82 people were arrested in the Kathmandu district alone.

The supply of gas was no easier with long queues
A small scale black-market trader in Kathmandu, interviewed in early February, said she received her stock from a petrol pump in Bardibas. Taxi drivers and rental vehicle operators said they bought petrol from government agencies, including the police and army. The managers of large hotels paid an additional, informal, charge on the consignments they received for their generators. A recent news article claims the NOC’s distribution list published since the end of the blockage includes petrol pumps that have been out of operation for years. The refusal of the NOC, a state-owned monopoly, to share details on how it distributed petrol, diesel, and cooking gas over the past months of scarcity is a scandal. So is the apparent inability of the government to take it to task.

Having said all of that there are good publically spirited filling station owners. The other day I was driving home on the last fumes of my ‘black’ petrol when my local filling station owner jumped out in front of me and ushered me through locked gates onto his forecourt. Five minutes later a tanker arrived and emptied 40,000lt of petrol into the storage tanks, ‘So back to normal’ I asked. Sadly no ‘Within two hours our tanks will be dry’ he said. What fuel is arriving in the public sector is simply not sufficient to quench the thirst of the petroleum thirsty citizens. 
By the time I returned to Kathmandu from my UK visit many of the fuel supply problems had been addressed and the filling stations were operating as normal.

The large menacing black cloud over Kathmandu on the 28th March
And now for something totally different – the weather Nepal is well into Spring now, the first cuckoos have arrived and the flowers are out in the garden, a selection appear throughout this newsletter and the Magnolia has bloomed. The monsoon seems like it isn’t that far away judging by yesterday’s weather. Over the last few days the weather has been particularly gloomy and heavy with just about all the domestic flights being cancelled, due to low clouds obliterating the view of even the northern valley hills normally visible from my office and that is a little over 4km away. But yesterday, the skies literally turned black, and the wind produced a dust storm akin to something seen in the Sahara. Trees were uprooted, plant pots were tossed around, poly-tunnels got ripped and pedestrians were in danger of getting decapitated by flying corrugated tin sheets. Then within the hour all was normal again.

No reporting on Nepal would be complete without mention of Everest. 
 
Helicopters involver in the recovery operation in 2014 Everest - nbcnews.com
The last few seasons havegiven Everest a rest although sadly for all the wrong reasons, now the 2016 season is beginning to build up. 

All the ladders used in the icefall have to be carried in by porters

Before the expeditions even reach Base Camp the Nepalese mountain workers are busy with their various roles, one of the main areas of responsibility is that of fixing the ice fall. This year the ‘Icefall Doctors’ as they are known have reported that the new line to the right of the icefall is subjected to new ‘cracks’ and ‘holes’ that have appeared since the earthquake last season. The boys are facing difficulties installing the equipment required to make life easier for those traversing through this difficult and dangerous section of the route. As a result of the changing conditions on the glacier over the last year more aluminium ladders are required. More than 40 ladders have already been installed and it is estimated that this figure could rise to as many as 200 by the time the route is fixed. A new initiative for this year is to establish a two-way traffic system, a route for ascent and one for descent. This is to avoid the hold-ups and to lessen the time spent in the danger zone from congestion, a lesson learnt from the Avalanche disaster of 2014.

At the time of the Avalanche disaster in 2014 and the fallout from the mountaineering industry in Nepal there was a statement issued by the government indicating that those expedition members who had been denied the opportunity to ascend Everest might have their permits extended by 5 years to allow them to use their already committed financial outlay. Consequently nearly 334 expedition members have had their permits extended to 2019. However, on February 20th 2016, a day before the Spring Season was due to commence the Finance Ministry also confirmed that the Tourism Ministry’s proposal to extend the climbing permits for hundreds more mountaineers who had been forced to abandon their expeditions in 2015 due to the April 25th earthquake not only on Everest but also on other peaks in Nepal would have their permits extended by two years, this included 801 individuals 265 of them were Everest permits. At present the Department of Tourism has fixed the Everest permit at 11,000 US $ while other permits vary accordingly. Of course there are many other costs involved in climbing any of the mountains in Nepal.

So far, as of the time of writing March 26th, three expeditions have already left Kathmandu for Everest Base Camp and their acclimatization while another is about to depart for Lhotse. Up to the date of writing, the Department of Tourism has received applications from 24 expeditions comprising 206 mountaineers seeking permits for Everest this season. This includes a 14-member NCC Girls Indian Everest Expedition and more than 60 army personnel from different countries. One of the largest Nepalese operators Seven Summits Trekking has 12 expeditions this season, five to Everest while others will attempt Makalu, Lhotse, Nuptse, Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. This season the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee has placed 76 waste bins along the Everest trail and Tara Air is accepting the responsibility to ferry the collected waste from the Khumbu free of charge.

Our garden 'springing' into life
Again the D of T has said it will have a presence at EBC this season ‘to facilitate world climbers and to monitor the activities of liaison officers!’

Just in case you have been on the Moon recently and missed the fact that Prince Harry has visited Nepal. His official visit, to celebrate the bicentennial anniversary of the diplomatic relationship between Nepal and Britain lasted five days during which time he completed his well documented official duties. He then announced that he would stay on an additional six days to help the charity Team Rubicon, a charity matching military veterans and first responders to rebuild an earthquake destroyed school in Lapu VDC-3, Gorkha District, a Western District of Nepal. The Nepalese are bowled over by the Prince and many are hoping that his presence will kick start the tourism industry after the recent devastating events. He has certainly been very vocal in his calls for people to return to Nepal, but only time will tell if they take his message on board.

A ‘Truth and Reconciliation Commission’ The Peoples’ War’ covered the years February 1996 to November 2006. However, progress to determine the truth and to make progress in other areas is slow despite the fact that the Commission was established on the 10th February 2015 with four objectives.

1. To find and punish those associated with the grave violation of human rights, 2. To create an environment for sustainable the peace and reconciliation process to develop. 3. To enable the repatriation of displaced victims. 4. To make recommendations for legal action against those who were involved in serious offences during the conflict. 

Reconstruction post Earthquake Many people have raised the question ‘What has the Nepalese Government done post earthquake in line with its commitment to address the state of those made homeless as a result of the April 2015 disaster?’ It was reported on the 29th March by Southasia.com.au that a delegation of German parliamentarians had held meetings in Nepal with Nepalese stakeholders and as a result had made the most direct criticism so far of the lack of progress to attend to the needs of the nation. The German delegation completed a five-day tour of those areas worst hit to assess reconstruction and rehabilitation activities. Germany had pledged 30million Euros in grant assistance to Nepal. An Australian parliamentarian had also raised similar issues.

It is understood that the German delegation also met with the National Reconstruction Authority but only to
find out that the body is still busy formulating rules and regulations rather than doing the actual reconstruction and rehabilitation work it was created to do.
Even the Nepali Times published a satirical comment on the state of Nepali politics on the 24th March – ‘It seems Nepal’s enduring time warp, once rather charming and quaint has endured far too long, nurtured by an elite that’s neither willing nor able to change with the times. Worse still, after so many years of abysmal governance this appears almost normal.
Readers don’t need the Hand of any other alien meddler to tell them Nepal has been hijacked by a coterie of highly incompetent individuals who, for all their self-importance and elevated stature locally, would be laughed off the political stage elsewhere. The dysfunction that’s become the local norm here is considered totally unacceptable in most other places.

Relief agencies and major donors are also getting impatient with the excuses and delays put forward by the National Reconstruction Authority (NRA). They are surprised that instead of concentrating on speedy implementation, the Authority wants to convene another donor conference and work on a 5-year reconstruction plan. Of the 4.1billion US $ pledged at the International Conference of Nepal’s Reconstruction last June, 860million US $ is committed, but none of that money has been spent. There was a great deal of optimism when the new CEO was appointed because of his reputation of being an ‘achiever’. But one of his first actions after taking over was to announce a competition for the Authority’s logo. This month it was reported that employees would in retrospect, receive double their current allowances. Being a political appointee, the CEO is facing opposition from the bureaucracy, as many competent civil servants have refused to join the Authority because he is their junior. It is estimated that the office needs at least 208 staff, but has hired only 60 so far.


To add to the woes of many the Deputy Prime Minister and Minister for Women Children and Social Welfare has unilaterally decided to block the bank accounts of the National Disabled Fund (NDF) and has also stopped all the services provided to the people who were rendered physically disabled by the earthquake and the decade-long armed conflict. Nitesh Kumar Gupta, chairman of the NDF, has also blocked the salaries of the staff. (11th March 2016 Kathmandu Post).
On March 8th, 2016 it was reported that the National Reconstruction Authority (NRA) stated that the reconstruction of earthquake-ravaged houses would not be completed before the monsoon 2016 (the earthquake occurred on 25th April 2015). 
Stating that ‘post-earthquake reconstruction is a time taking process’, the authority’s CEO said, ‘It may sound unpleasant but the reality is that it is not possible to complete reconstruction of houses before the monsoon.’ He identified the delay in staff recruitment at the NRA and reassessment to finalise “genuine” earthquake victims were major reasons. The NRA chief stressed the need to continue build temporary shelters to keep people safe in the monsoon. (Kathmandu Post) However, Prime Minister KP Sharma Oli has also stated that he is disappointed with the inefficiency of the NRA – the organisation that he himself is Chairman of! So if the head of the government and the nation complains, but does nothing, about the agencies he oversees has Nepal got the right man for the job? To whom do Nepal and its people turn to now? The Government are simply not up to the job. However, many of the monuments destroyed in the earthquake are slowly rising from the dust.

Does the Nepali Leadership have its Priorities Right? Despite Nepal’s financial situation on March 21st, 2016, and ignoring suggestions from various quarters including the Prime Minister’s Office and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Prime Minister KP Sharma Oli left for China on Sunday, leading a 98-member delegation of Nepalese ministers, secretaries, lawmakers, businessmen and journalists. The Chinese side had said it would extend hospitality to 11 officials however the PM did not listen to either the Chinese, or his political advisors. Many officials such as ministers, MPs and Chief Secretary Somlal Subedi, who do not contribute substantially to the visit’s success, were included in the team.
The visit will cost Nepal Rs150 million rupees, approximately 1,500,000 US $. What could that achieve in Nepal’s present situation?

Monitoring and Accountability Thomas Bell recently wrote a piece for Al Jazeera questioning the way in which INGOs were delivering their services but maybe not following up on monitoring the outcomes. Many INGO/NGOs exist with the goal to alleviate poverty, human suffering, improving education and health but in the face of statistics showing mixed outcomes, is this, their very existence, in fact, the most important question an International NGO should be asking of themselves? Many organisations have restructured to try to partially address the issue and the backlash from home and abroad. Oxfam International is moving its headquarters to Nairobi. ActionAid moved to Johannesburg and Amnesty International is decentralising as well, however none have gone so far as to ask the question ‘Do we have the right to exist’. Since the recent ratification of the Nepal Constitution and even before that there is a rising tide of resentment against the big NGOs, it is felt these organisations are the source of much of the ‘corruption money’, they are seen as the milk cow and consequently can be abused with little fear of repercussions. In the light of the previously mentioned issues of lack of positive Government action are the INGOs being used to actually cover some of the duties that are actually government responsibilities while the Government in fact use their funds for inappropriate activities?
Will the Nepali government ever take full responsibility when so much foreign aid and action is delivered into the country by these very INGOs?

Sarita standing with Nepal's Vive President to her left
The Trekking Agents Association of Nepal (TAAN) The Trekking Agencies' Association of Nepal (TAAN) is an umbrella association for the trekking agencies.
It was established in 1979 by a handful of trekking agent operators who felt it was time to devise sound business principles within the trekking industry as well as to regulate the sector which was growing by leaps and bounds with every passing year. It was also felt that there was a need to develop a strong advisory group that could assist the government in promotion Nepali tourism and to develop tourism as a sustainable revenue generating industry. The association frequently communicates with different government agencies and other stakeholders to simplify working procedures and resolve problems related to the trekking sector. The executive committee, which is elected every two years, has eight office-bearers, nine executive committee members, four nominated executive members, one immediate past president and one representative from TAAN Regional Association Pokhara. 

The President of TAAN with Sarita and Binita
The association organizes different training sessions and workshops on a regular basis to enhance the professionalism of its member agencies and their workforce. It organizes a number of events; TAAN Lhosar Festival (February 17), International Sagarmatha Day and TAAN Day (May 29), World Environment Day (June 5), and World Tourism Day (September 27), among others events. Other programs include developing tree plantation, trekking trails and river clean-up campaigns, it also works to promote agro-tourism and good community sanitation schemes.
At the last AGM held in 2015 Sarita was nominated for a position on the Board which she secured with a large majorly. Her areas of responsibility now include being the coordinator for internal relationships.

Temporry class-room at Megre School
Mergre School Support Many of you have supported our small program to help the Megre community, Ramachhap District post earthquake. With the funds raised the community decided that it would be more appropriate for us to provide financial support for a project that would benefit all, not just a few families, so with this in mind we set out a few weeks ago to visit the community to assess the school and to understand the work involved in trying to support the community post earthquake. The agreement was that the community would liaise with the local education office to clear all the administration involved in the rebuild and then they would clear the site ready for the new building. The school was certainly in a dangerous condition however the community had constructed two new bamboo blocks of twin class-rooms as a temporary measure. It is hoped the work will be finished before this year’s monsoon.
It is anticipated that the construction will provide six new class-rooms as well as a new toilet facility.
The Mergre School Committee meeting
The school is a government school but built on public land and provides education to a total of 360 pupils, 190 girls and 170 boys. This is an average breakdown in line with Nepali culture as the boys, perceived as being more ‘valuable’ to a family, get sent to what the parents believe are better schools in Kathmandu. There are at the moment 23 students working towards their School Leaving Certificate (SLC) this is I guess equivalent to our GCSE level, a compulsory pass is required if the student wants to go onto higher education.
At the time of writing this newsletter the community have completed all the paper work, they have cleared the site and the foundation work for the new rooms has begun. Funding is provided retrospectively, or as appropriate and once a certain stage of the reconstruction has been reached, providing it meets the agreed standard then the bills are cleared ready for the next stage. So far so good! But….!

Sher Bahadur the newly appointed leader on Nepal's Congress Party
On March 7th the Nepali Congress Party held their Presidential elections the outcome of which saw Sher Bahadur Deuba voted into the Presidential position. Deuba has also acted as Nepal’s Prime Minister on three separate previous occasions. Whether the Terai people feel that Deuba is seen more of a ‘friend’, than KP Sharma Oli the existing Prime Minister is, is debatable or whether the Madeshi see this as another opportunity to see their Constitutional issues addressed (See our previous Newsletter) by toppling PM Oli. However, whatever the reason the petrol filling stations have again closed their gates and petrol has been rationed since around the 27th March. As yet there is no border dispute and I guess the garages are playing save just in case the supply dries up or maybe anticipating another ‘black market’ situation. Never-the-less vehicle owners are beginning to keep an eye of their fuel consumption just in case .. I know I am and the line of taxis at the pumps are growing by the day.

Lessons in the tempory class-room at Megre School - life goes on
So after all is said and done life goes on, the Nepalese people take it all in their stride and go about their daily business as normal, what else can they do? Rebuilding work continues and communities are getting back on their feet. And for the tourists and other visitors, nothing seems to be amiss. Nepal is as it always was – a happy go-luck place to be!
Enjoy summer folks.

Wednesday 13 April 2016

Manaslu's Ascents




Manaslu towering over Samagaon and the Pung-gyen Monastery photo Ian Wall
Manaslu, the Mountain of Spirit
Manaslu 8163m, also known as Kutang is the eighth highest mountain in the world and the seventh highest in Nepal.

In the 21st century it is sometimes difficult to imagine the Manaslu district, 66 years ago. A time before many of the small hill villages of the area were developed or before the well established trails and the network of roads and bridges made access a lot easier.

Manaslu's mighty northwest face photo Ian Wall
In 1950 with the borders of Nepal open and foreigners welcome the famous British explorer H.W. Tilman arrived with the intention of leading a small expedition into the Annapurna Massif. In those days the only approach was by foot from Kathmandu, a trek of over a week. Their expedition used Manang as the base from which they pushed into the valleys and mountains of the surrounding area. It was while on an exploratory trek up the Dudh Khola to Bimtang that Tilman saw the giant peak of Manaslu, however this was not their priority. They returned to Manang and focused on Annapurna IV, eventually, after three months of climbing the expedition aborted. Looking for an alternative project Tilman along with Jimmy Roberts returned to Bimtang and Roberts went on to cross the Lakya La and then descended toward Samagaon. It was from here that he reported that there was a possible direct route to the summit of Manaslu via the great plateau ‘which we discussed with the dispassionate calm of men who have no intention of trying it’ Tilman later commented. 

The Japanese then took an interest in Manaslu and in 1952 sent a reconnaissance expedition in the post monsoon season to explore the possibilities of summating via either the north or east faces.  In 1953 the Japanese return with an expedition lead by Y. Mita, they established base camp in Samagaon, however their attempt on the east face failed at around 7750m. 

Approaching the Larka La photograph Ian Wall
In 1954 another Japanese expedition approached Manaslu, this time via the Buri Gandaki. However, once they reached Samagaon they were met by a group of hostile villagers who blamed the Japanese for upsetting their gods during the 1952 expedition that eventually resulted in the gods sending down a large avalanche that destroyed the Pung-gyen Monastery killing eighteen people. The expedition had no alternative other than to withdraw from the area and so descended to Ganesh Himal. In an attempt to appease the local community the Japanese made a large donation to rebuild the Monastery.  In 1956 the Japanese again returned to Manaslu and despite an ongoing mistrust from the locals they succeeded on the 9th May when Gyaltsen Norbu and Toshio Imanishi, members of the team lead by Yuko Maki, also known as Aritsune Maki, summated. They were followed on the 11th by K. Kato and M. Higeta. The Japanese did not return to Manaslu until 1971. Their route is now the established normal line of ascent.

David Snellgrove, a well known scholar spent seven months exploring mid-west and central Nepal in 1956. He visited the Manaslu area via the Buri Gandaki River, he then followed it northward eventually crossing the Larka La and descending down into the Marsyangi Valley via Bimtang.

The two summits of Manaslu seen in the early morning sun photograph Ian Wall 


Manaslu received little attention between 1954 and 1971 when the Japanese returned this time under the leadership of A. Takahashi. On the 17th May K. Kohara and Motoki succeeded in making the third ascent and via a hard new route on the Northwest Spur. A Korean expedition also attempted the Northeast Face led by Kim Ho-Sup, tragically Kim Ki-Sup fell to his death.
Camp 3 photograph Billi Brieling
The pace of expeditions visiting Manaslu began to gain momentum and in 1972 a Tyrolean expedition led by W. Nairz placed R. Messner on the summit via a route on the South Face. His climbing partner F. Jager had decided to retreat below the summit. Messner pushed on, summated but during the descent he got lost in a storm but eventually found his tent. This he expected to be occupied by Jager, but no, it was A. Schlick and Horst Fankhauser who had arrived from Camp 3. Immediately the three climbers realized that Jager was still out on the mountain. Schlick and Fankhauser went out into the night’s storm to try to find Jager who they could hear crying for help. Sadly many hours later only Fankhauser returned Schlick and Jager died in a blizzard unable to find their way to the tents at Camp 4. On a South Korean expedition attempting the Northeast Face four Koreans including the leader Kim Ho-Sup, a Japanese climber, Kazunari Yasuhisa and ten Sherpas were killed by an avalanche on the 10th April. A Spanish expedition lead by Jaume Garcia Orts aborted their attempt at 6100m.

In 1973 the original route was successfully repeated by a German expedition, G Schmatz, S. Hupfaurer and Sherpa Urkien Tshering. The Japanese returned in 1974 when a Women’s expedition led by Kyoko Sato attempted the East Ridge but having failed to summit they turned their attention to the original line on the north-east face where N. Nakaseko, M. Uchida, M. Mori and Sherpa Janbu summated on the 4th May, sadly one team member died as a result of a fall on the descent between Camps 4 and 5. This was the first successful climb of an 8000m peak to be made by women. In 1976 a joint Persian-Japanese group lead by Brig Gen M Khakbiz successfully climbed the normal route.


Climbing above Camp 3 photograph Billi Brieling
By now several expeditions were aware of the potentials offered on Manaslu and the 1980s saw many of those realized. A South Korean expedition led by Li In Jung reached the summit via the original route. In 1981 a 13-man Swiss expedition reached the summit via the normal route, in the autumn the French climbed a new route as a variation to the West Face route. The Japanese were again successful on the normal route led by Y Kato. In 1983 two Yugoslavian climbers were tragically killed in an avalanche while a Korean team succeeded on the original route and a German expedition successfully followed the 1972 Tyrolean Route in the autumn season. The first winter ascent was achieved by a Polish team led by L Korniszewski over the winter of 1983-4 following the Tyrolean Route. During the spring of 1984 a great friend to the Nepal Mountaineering Association, Alex Kunaver climbed the South Face while in the autumn season the Poles succeeded on the South Ridge and Southeast Face. Maciej Berbeka and Ryszard Gajewski climbed the normal route in winter summating on the 12th January 1984. Jerz Kukuczka, Artur Hajzer and Carlos Carsolio made the first ascent of the east summit of Manaslu before Jerz Kukuczka, Artur Hajzer went onto summit Manaslu via a new route, Alpine style and without supplementary oxygen on the 10th November 1986, this may well have been along the east ridge, they descended the Northeast Face. On 12th May 1989 Alan Hinkes (UK) became the first Briton to climb Manaslu

In 1993 an Austrian expedition led by Arthur Haid placed Sepp Brunner, Gerhard Flobmann, Sepp Hinding and Dr Michale Leuprecht on the summit via the normal route, they then descended to Base Camp on skis from 7000m. On December 8th 1995 The Second Kazakhstan Himalayan Expedition summated with Anatoli Boukreev.  In 1996 Carlos and Alfredo Carsolio reached the summit and for Carlos it was his fourteenth 8000m, summit thus becoming the fourth person to achieve this objective. The first American, Charli Mace reached the top in 1997.

By now Nepal was witnessing an explosion of commercial expeditions. If for any reason there were issues around the Khumbu peaks Manaslu was considered the obvious option and often as the first choice of anyone wanting to reach an 8000m summit in preparation for one of the larger and more difficult peaks. 

Larka Peak forms the northern most point of Manaslu's Northwest Ridge photograph Ian Wall

During the spring of 2000 Manaslu was the home to four expeditions, one was on the east face, the 'Japan 2000 Expedition' led by Yoshio Maruyama, then there three expeditions on the north-east ridge; the ETB 2000 Expedition from Spain led by Felix Maria I. Iriate; the 2000 Korean Manaslu Expedition led by Han Wang Yong, and the Manaslu 2000 Expedition from Italy led by Franco Brunello. In May 2001 Serguiy Kovalov, Vadim Leontiev and Vladislav Terzyul, the Ukraine Himalayan Expedition 2001 successfully summated Manaslu via the challenging south-east face; all climbed without supplementary oxygen. The autumn of 2001 saw three members and a sherpa from the Japan Workers Alpine Federation summating the peak via the north-east face on October 9th. The Americans returned in May 2002, when Tom Fitzsimmons, Jerome Delvin, Michael McGuffin, Dan Percival and Brian Sato and two Sherpas reached the summit on the 13th. Piotr Pustelnik, on his twelfth 8000m summit and Krzysztof Tarasewicz climbed Manaslu on May 17th, 2003. However, Dariusz Zaluski, Anna Czerwinska and Barbara Drousek, who started the climb after Piotr and Krzysztof, had to turn back due to strong winds and bad weather.  Sadly the Australian Sue Fear died as a result of falling into a crevasse after her successful summit bid on May 29th 2006 while on the 5th October 2008 Valerie Parkinson became the first British woman to climb Manaslu.

Descending towards Camp 3 photograph Billi Brieling
In 2011 on the 4th October Billi Bierling became the first German woman, and up to 2016, the only German woman to have climbed Manaslu. Arjun Vaipa ia young Indian mountaineer summated Manaslu on the 5th October 2011 and thus became the youngest climber to have summated at the age of 18years. Eleven climbers were killed in an avalanche on September 23rd 2012. On September 25th 2014 a Polish ski-mountaineer Andrzej Bargiel set a record time climbing from base camp to the summit in 14 hours 5 minutes, he also set a record time for the round journey base-peak-base of 21 hours 14 minutes.

In 2015 just after the April 25th earthquake Pavel Pavel Bem from the Czech Republic and Daniel De Gabai from France summated Manaslu on the 8th May.

Manaslu's summit photograph Billi Brieling
Nepalese climbers have reached the summit of Makalu on 403 separate occasions.
Since the ascent of Manaslu by the Ukrainian expedition in 2001 when Sergi Kovalev, Vadim Leontiev and Vladislav Terzyul reached the summit via the Southeast Face all other 949 ascents have been via the Northeast Face original route and of these 949 ascents 377 have been by Nepalese mountaineers.
Mansalu is notorious for accumulating snow pack setting off avalanches and wind slab avalanches, unfortunately these conditions catch many mountaineers out resulting in the mountain gaining the reputation of being one of the most dangerous to climb, second only behind Annapurna in Nepal.
Reference
Manaslu; K Reynolds, Cicerone Press, 2000
All 14 Eight-Thousanders; R Messner, Crowood Press, 1988
Internet research 2016



















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