Monday 20 July 2015

2015 Pride, Prejudice and Intrigue, Dor Bahadur Bista


Pride, Prejudice and Intrigue, Dor Bahadur Bista

I first came across the author Dor Bahadur Bista while trying to untangle my understanding of the ethnic groups of Nepal when I first arrived in the country. If Harka Gurung has the reputation of being the father and first Nepali national to complete writings on the history, development and the academics of Nepali life then Dor Bahadur Bista has to be the pioneering father of Indigenous Anthropological studies in Nepal.
Dor Bahadur Bista was born in 1926 in Jaruwarasu, a small village not far from Patan in the Kathmandu Valley. In 1952 he went into the teaching profession. Eventually he was presented with an opportunity he could not resist.

In 1957 Professor Christoph von Fürer-Haimendor from the University of London, (South- Asian Studies) wanted a combined assistant and informant to help him with his studies of the Sherpa people of Solu Khumbu. Dor Bista accompanied Haimendor literally keeping notes on everything he saw during his travels, he watched Haimendor and copied and learnt from his methodology for recording data and anthropological research. By the end of his role as an assistant Dor Bista was committed to the study of anthropology. He was invited to London to help Haimendor with the translation of his Nepali notes made during their Sherpa research. This ultimately led to Dor Bistna going onto study anthropology at the universities of London, Wisconsin and Columbia intermittently during the next three decades.

In the preface to the first edition to his book published in 1967, ‘People of Nepal’ Dor Bista acknowledged that Nepal was a Himalayan Kingdom of great diversity, ethnic and cultural charm and geographical beauty. With its previously closed borders it was a tantalizing destination for travelers, scholars and mountaineers; explorers from many different genre. Up until 1950 not only was Nepal closed to the outside world but there was no incentive for the Nepali people themselves to travel within their own country.  With difficult terrain in the hill and mountain regions, deadly malaria in the Terai and a complete absence of any form of transport or communication system the people within the different parts of Nepal had little incentive to broaden their knowledge of either their country of fellow country-men.
Dor Bista gained extensive field experience as an anthropologist and this exposure together with his visits abroad and work with INGOs in Nepal gave him the confidence he needed to take up, in 1978, the post of Executive Director of the new Centre for Nepal and Asian Studies at Tribhuvan University (TU). He was then established as the Professor and Head of the TU Central Department of Humanities and Social Sciences 1982 - 1989. It was mostly for his work at the TU that he proudly gained the title of ‘Father of Nepalese Anthropology’. During this time Dor Bista began writing his most well known but controversial book, Fatalism and Development: Nepal’s Struggle for Modernization (1991).

‘Fatalism and Development’ looked mainly at the socio-cultural aspects and value system of Nepali society and the effect they have, even today, on Nepal’s development. Dor Bista accused the Ranas of fostering policies of nepotism and isolationism which ultimately resulted in social stagnation, but at the same time the strengthening of their grip on the control of Nepal and its wealth. He goes on to comment on the fact that the benefits of economic change since 1950 have, in the main been directed to the privileged classes. Through ‘Fatalism and Development’ Dor Bista tries to identify key factors of Nepali society that are preventing the development of Nepal. The fact that certain ethnic groups are regarded as being capable of only certain skills, for example, as merchants and craftsmen excludes them from mainstream society, policy making and are endangered as other cultures become more powerful.


In Nepal the concept of fatalism not only devalues the concept of productivity it works diagonally opposed to it. Most development and progression has been as a result of external aid, however, the beneficiaries have not always been those at the forefront of growth and production. This should not be viewed as ‘ethnic conflict’ this, by and large, is not an issue in Nepal. The real issue, Dor Bista goes on to explain, is the inherent conflict in Nepali society, social tension within the social structure of the class and caste system. While some groups of a Bahun background are trying to fight the elitism others from a non-Bahun background are said to be pushing the archaic ideology forward to further strengthen their own class and caste status.

The most important outcome of all of this is the absolute belief in fatalism, life is in the hands of the Gods and no one has any control over one’s own path through life, what will be will be. To this end there is still, to a larger extent, the development of chakari, or sycophancy tendencies. Through this practice and across several generations it has been possible for some families to raise their class or caste status. There are similarities with the fatalistic and sycophantic attitude towards foreign aid of today’s situation in Nepal. In this context aid becomes something that is ‘justly due’ to Nepal and not a resource that is meant to be considered seriously and used productively. This concept Dor Bista discussed 25 years ago and yet today there is still a lively debate as to the real value of foreign aid and who the actual beneficiaries are. I suspect that in some political-social circles this may well be a root cause for the delay in passing the Constitution, if Nepal becomes too well structured then foreign aid might be reduced.

Over the following years and up until Dor Bista’s disappearance in 1995, he ran the Karnali Institute, an NGO that he founded in Jumla District. Through this organisation Dor Bista and his anthropologist son, Hikmat, conducted development work supported by various sources, including international aid agencies and a study program that brought foreign student volunteers to the Jumla District.
During his time in Jumla it is said that Dor Bista antagonised some of the local elite through his efforts to empower the poor, by keeping the poor poor and uneducated means the higher castes will remain in power virtually unchallenged. Jumla was Dor Bista’s own purkha, his ancestry; but more importantly his philosophy for being there was to apply theories of development to help the Khas community improve their social and economic status. Dor Bista’s efforts to develop self-esteem among the poorest of the Khas had resulted in strong criticism from the privileged Jumlis. It appeared to Dor Bista that to try and practice what he preached, annoyed the political, economic and priestly forces that conspired to prevent empowerment of the under privileged.
Royalists had been critical of Dor Bista over remarks attributed to him about the relative ‘purity’ of the Thakuri caste lineage of the (then) royal family. In a caste society, the bloodline (kinship) purity is a sensitive issue. Dor Bista had speculated that somewhere, sometime in the past, the king’s noble heritage may have included an ethnic Magar relationship. This was not the first time this suggestion had been aired, but it opened up old wounds.
In 1995 while travelling in west Nepal, Dor Bista met with the young son of a friend and they exchanged a short conversation before Dor Bista boarded a bus in Nepalganj heading for Dhangarhi.
Dor Bista has never been seen since. Some people suggest fowl play by the local Jumla people, some by the royalists, other suggest Dor Bista had simply become tired and disillusioned or depressed and committed suicide, while others suggested he simply slipped over the border into to Hardwar, the sacred city in the Uttaranchal State, India and joined a commune. 
There were, apparently, many reasons that could account for Dor Bista’s disappearance; he had upset the Jumla elite and village elders, he criticised the royal lineage, there was an alleged relationship with a young student in Jumla and finally Dor Bista’s questioning of the ethical case for the caste system in Nepal.
To bring the story up to date, Kesang Tseten has made a documentary film (2015) ‘Castaway Man’ of the last few years of Dor Bista’s life. In the film Basanta Thapa follows in Dor Bista’s footsteps across western Nepal and into India meeting local people and trying to establish the reasons and causes for Dor Bista’s disappearance.

Books
1967 People of Nepal - Kathmandu: Department of Publicity, Ministry of Information and Broadcasting, His Majesty’s Government of Nepal
1971 People of Nepal - (book) (with a new chapter on Dhangar). Second edition. Kathmandu: Ratna Pustak Bhandar
1972 Sabai Jatko Fulbari - Kathmandu: Sajha Prakashan
1979 Report from Lhasa -  Kathmandu: Sajha Prakashan
1988 Past, Present and Future of Nepal. Unpublished manuscript
1991 Fatalism and Development: Nepal's Struggle for Modernization. Calcutta: Orient Longman.
1996 People of Nepal (with a new chapter on Khasha) - Sixth edition Kathmandu: Ratna Pustak Bhandar
2002 Sabai Jatko Fulbari - Kathmandu: Himal Books. (Introduction By Harka Gurung)

Articles
1957 Ramailo Khumbu ra Kehi Sherpa Lok Git. Dafechari 6(5): 3‐14.1958 Educational Problems in the Northern Border Areas of Nepal. Educational Quarterly 2(3): 98‐102
1958 Report of an Educational Fact Finding Excursion to North East Nepal Educational Quarterly 2(4): 157‐163
1958 Jilla Parichaya‐ Solu Khumbu - Vikash 1(4): 28‐31.4
1960 Himalka Chaunrigoth ra Kehi Gothale Git. Sangam 1(3): 5‐8
1964 A Visit to Dang Deukhuri - In USAID/Nepal: Community Development Division, Field Trip Report, pp. 1‐64
1965 A Brief Report on the Study of Jiri‐Sikri Area and the Activities of Jiri Multipurpose Development Project - Unpublished report, Tribhuvan University [co‐written with Hari Mohan Shrestha]
1966 Tengboje Gumba - Rup Rekha 6(12): 22‐24
1967 Dolpa Yatrako Dayaribata - Rup Rekha 8(4): 10‐14
1968 Des Vikashma Dharmik Biswasko Asar - Rup Rekha 8(9): 50‐56
1969 The Innovators of Upper Kali Gandak - Ramjham 5(3): 35‐42
1969 The Forgotten People of Dang Valley - Vasudha 11(10): 10‐14
1970. Cultural Change and Royal Wedding - Vasudha 13(4): 19‐24
1970 Hindu Kingdom and its Social Aspects - In Nepal: A Profile. B.P. Shrestha, ed., pp. 53‐63. Kathmandu: Nepal Council of Applied Economic Research
1970 Nepali Wedding Procedures - In Hamro Samskriti (special issue). Krishna Prasad Adhikari, ed., pp. 130‐136. Kathmandu: Department of Culture.
1971 Chepang - The Nepal Digest 1(5): 94‐106.
1971 Administration of Development Programs in the Himalayan Area - In Aspects of Development Administration - Prachanda Pradhan, ed., pp. 57‐61.Kathmandu: Centre for Economic and Development Administration (CEDA), Tribhuvan University
1971. Frustration in Nepali Bureaucracy - In Aspects of Development Administration.
Prachanda Pradhan, ed., pp. 33‐39. Kathmandu: CEDA, Tribhuvan University.5
1971 The Political Innovators of Upper Kali Gandaki - Man 6(1): 52‐60.
1973 The People. In Nepal in Perspective - Pashupati Shumshere J.B. Rana and Kamal P. Malla, eds., pp. 35‐46. Kathmandu: CEDA, Tribhuvan University.
1975 Chepang Jatiko Samajik Arthik Sammunati Sarbekchan (Pariyojana Pratibedan). Kathmandu: CEDA,Tribhuvan University [co‐written with Navin Kumar Rai].
1976 Encounter with the Raute: The Last Hunting Nomads of Nepal. Kailash: A Journal of Himalayan Studies 4(4): 317‐327.
1976 Padipur: A Central Terai Village
1977 Patterns of Migration in Nepal - In Himalaya: Ecologie‐Ethnologie. CNRS, No. 268: 397‐399. Paris.
1977 Rastriye Ekata- Rup Rekha 18(8): 102‐114.
1978 Nepalese in Tibet - In Himalayan Anthropology: The Indo Tibetan Interface. James F. Fisher, ed., pp. 187‐204. The Hague, Paris: Mouton.
1978Manavsastra/ Samajsastrama Anusandhan [Research in Anthropology / Sociology] - Tribhuvan University Journal 10(1): 277‐284 [co‐written with Trilok S. Thapa and Dilli Ram Dahal].
1980 Hindu Kingdom and its Social Aspect - In Nepal a Conspectus. Kamal P Malla, ed., pp. 14‐23. Kathmandu: His Majesty’s Government Press.
1980 Prospects of Anthropology in Nepal - A paper presented at a seminar on social sciences, Tribhuvan University.
1980 Nepalese in Tibet - Contributions to Nepalese Studies 8(1): 1‐19.6
1982 The Process of Nepalization - In Anthropological and Linguistic Studies of the Gandaki Area in Nepal (Monumenta Serindica 10). Dor Bahadur Bista, et al., eds., pp. 1‐20. Tokyo: Institute for the Study of Languages and Cultures of Asia and Africa.
1984 Aasamanjasyeta Ko Paristhiti Aaja Ko Hamro Yetharthata Ho -. In Byaktitwora Bichar (Interview Given to Kishor Kunwar). Kathmandu: Shakti Printers.
1985 Ethnicity: Its Problems and Prospects, unpublished report submitted to Centre for Nepal and Asian Studies.
1987 Nepal School of Sociology and Anthropology - Occasional Papers in Sociology and Anthropology 1: 6‐10.
1989 Nepal in 1988: Many Losses, Some Gains. Asian Survey 29(2): 223‐228.
1989 The Structure of Nepali Society - In Nepal: Perspectives on Continuity and Change. Kamal P. Malla, ed., pp. 169‐191. Kirtipur: Centre for Nepal and Asian Studies.
1995 Khas of Chaudabisa - Himal 8(3): 45‐48.
1995 Nepalko Jatiye Bividhata: Samasyako Jaro Ki Sakaratmak Srot - Himal 5(2): 7‐12.
1995 Chaudabise ko Anuvab: Khasharuma Aatma‐ Pahichanko Sankat - Himal 5(4): 40‐43.
1996 An Interview with Dor Bahadur Bista - Current Anthropology 37(2): 349‐356.
(Interview given to James F. Fisher) - Reprinted in Himalayan Research Bulletin 17(1): 25‐32.

1997 Comments on 'Sociological and Anthropological Research and Teaching in Nepal: Western Adaptation versus Indigenization' - In Social Sciences in Nepal:

Monday 13 July 2015

2015 Off the Wall Newsletter, Special Edition 8



Off the Wall trekking Newsletter June 2015 - Special Edition

This is a special edition of our ‘August’ Newsletter brought forward to July. The additional logo is being used by organisations involved with the Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA www.pata.org) as part of the Nepal Tourism Recovery Strategy.
The aim of this Newsletter is to try to inform, show and encourage people who are interested in travelling to Nepal this autumn season to set plans in place. We have all seen the pictures of the doom and gloom but Nepal is not totally as portrayed in many of the early news programs. People realise that trekking and tourism are the only real ways to get money back into circulation, especially into the pockets of the hill people from the trekking regions of the Nepal Himalaya. I also hope to quell a few concerns and answer a few questions that we have received that might be of interest to everyone. With this in mind I have also attached a letter from our ‘Ambassadors’ in a bid to offer further reassurance to visitors. I make no excuses for more pictures than words!
Nepal is rapidly picking itself up and the majority of trekking regions and tourist sites are now open for business, this nation of friendly people, vibrant culture and exotic festivals eagerly awaits your return. Kathmandu and Pokhara hotels are fully open, the mountain flights are still offering an exceptional experience and most of the trekking routes outside the areas listed below are open, all giving an insight into life in rural and remote Nepal. 
 

Views from around the Kathmandu Valley post April 2015
Part 1 - Boudha
The Boudha Stupa was originally constructed around the 5th Century AD, however, the pre-history of Nepal is based mainly on legend. Today Boudha plays a significant role in the world wide Buddhist culture.
During the April earthquake several of the interlocking gilded copper plates towards the top of the stupa became loose. However, this is not the first time major damage limitation work has been carried out on the monument. As a precaution craftsmen have dismantled the top section to ensure that the inner core of the stupa has not been damaged. Work is already well underway to reinstate the stupa back to its former glory.
 








 
Sarita and I have spent a few very pleasant evenings over at Boudha during the last few weeks, very relaxing!

The Buddhist philosophy is based on one of impermanence, the Wheel of Life. The very mountains and landscape of Nepal are also ones of impermanence created by the uplifting of the Himalaya and the subsequent erosion; from landslides, rock falls, avalanches, floods, monsoons; all change the face of Nepal and occasionally earthquakes are thrown into the mix just for good measure. Erosion occurs in other countries, even low lying Kent in the UK had a 4.2 earthquake a few weeks ago but the steep sided Himalayan mountains have the additional law of gravity to assist in the rearranging of mother natures’ cover. 
The 1934 earthquake and the subsequent restoration work led to the world wide recognition of famous Newar architects and builders of a previous generation.
Today there are many time served master craftsmen working in and around Kathmandu, Bhaktapur, Patan and even in the hill regions, Kutumsang for example, that it is believed that there are enough to restore the temples and monuments that have recently been damaged. Salvage work has long begun to reclaim the bricks and wooden structures, these are now in storage and will be incorporated into the restoration of the temples, palaces and Durbar Squares. Work has already begun felling timber and stacking for the seasoning process.
All this work will inspire a younger generation and open up opportunities that may have been overlooked before for carpenters, wood carvers, tin and copper smiths, temple artisans and artists. Every century as we have earthquakes the artisans rise to prominence, as their importance increases, it leads to a new breed of master craftsmen and craftswomen coming up through the ranks. This is how the heritage of Nepal will continue and survive.
This is Nepal and these are Nepali people!

Views from around the Kathmandu Valley post April 2015
Part 2 - Into Thamel and Aason
Thamel of course is the main commercial tourist area of Kathmandu while Aason is the area around the old town centre where the locals go to shop, not far from Durbar Square, images also included here
 

 

                                                      

 




All images above taken on the 23rd June 2015

Tuesday, June 30, 2015

Nepal Tourism Recovery is a collective of travel insiders formed after the earthquake and based in Nepal. As a group, we have tried to assimilate the most common questions that are coming from travelers who are planning trips to Nepal. If your particular question is not here, please ask us a question and we shall put it on the list as well.

1.     Are the ATMs working?
YES all as normal, just ensure you have told your bank you are travelling and will be using ATMs in Nepal
2.     Is there a Cholera Outbreak?
NO but follow all the usual precautions as previously advised
3.     Is electricity still working?
YES but we are still subjected to the normal ‘load-shedding’ schedules.
4.     Is the drinking water OK?
Mineral water is still available for travellers but if you want belt and braces there are many makes of water purification units around and readily available in the market (some are now in Nepal)
5.     Can I get from point A to point B?
Travel is fine at the moment, the monsoon will no doubt loosen hill sides as it always does but there are many geologist groups in Nepal monitoring the situation, and will continue to do so after the monsoon. ICIMOD expect that there will be a very high risk of landslides in the 14 worst earthquake affected districts but the rest of Nepal will be at the same level of risk as pre-earthquake.
6.     Is Everest Buried?
It is believed that Everest has sunk about a centimetre but so far no scientific surveys have been completed with published results. It’s definitely still there!
7.     Is Kathmandu flattened?
Definitely not! Most parts of the city are working as normal. In many places you would not know there had been an earthquake - this includes the major tourism hub of Thamel
8.     Are you living above a rubble mound?
No and there are very few piles of rubble around, the majority have now been managed or are in the process of being managed and removed.
9.     Which ones are the safest hotels in Kathmandu, Nagarkot?
Nearly all of the top end- hotels have been checked and are now open as before, certainly the high profile (not necessarily the most expensive) ones are. The majority of Thamel hotels have not yet had a government engineers surveys but they are open for business as normal. When considering a hotel choice please look for the ‘Green Sticker’, the official survey stamp that the building is safe. (http://www.drupartment.com/nepal-hotel-status)  Check this portal for hotels that are open for business as normal
10.  Is Wifi free at all the hotels and restaurants? 

Those that have this service are still providing it
11.  What about food?
Most of the favourite and popular restaurants are open for business as usual but the same travel advice applies as it always has done – use hand gel and avoid small ‘local’ back street restaurants to stay healthy. Many restaurants are closing early (9pm) but only because there is so little trade
12.  Does the phone and Internet work?
All communication systems work as you would normally expect.
13.  Is there lawless behaviour like looting? NO!
14.  Is there a likelihood of aftershocks during my visit?
Nepal has always had earthquakes, on average it gets over twenty per year, many under 4 magnitude so there always have been tremors. These are now happening in a very short and mostly gentle form on a regular basis however most people are not even aware of them happening and the dogs have stopped barking!

The Exchange Rate - as on the 12th July it stood at 156.69/- to the pound sterling

The Monsoon - Despite the weather forecast the monsoon is still slow in arriving although there has been
heavy rain for some periods of time over the last few weeks. No doubt things will liven up as we get towards the end of July. As happens every year there have been a few mud/landslides but nothing out of the ordinary. Obviously the authorities have an eye on all the main traffic routes, the road to Tibet via the 'Friendship Bridge' is closed but for the moment that is because of the huge landslip that happened earlier this year. This road is also in the NO GO zone mentioned below.

More Good News
Nepal Tourism Recovery is a collective of travel insiders formed after the earthquake and based in Nepal. The organisation is recognized by Nepal Tourism Board and has the wider acceptance of the national and international tourism fraternity. This blogsite strives to provide factual, referenced information from the ground. 
NEPAL TRAVEL ADVISORY | 08 July 2015 status

BE INFORMED BEFORE YOU TRAVEL

Travel to and in Nepal is possible and in most areas is at the same level of risk as pre-earthquake. 

The travel advice you’ll find in this document is therefore differentiated by geographical area.
·                      Yellow areas: do not travel – the 14 worst affected districts
·                      Orange areas: travel, but use caution
·                      Blue: travel as normal


There are further details on the following:
·       Transport to and within Nepal
·       Adventure activities
·       Cultural and heritage tours
·       Festivals, events and more

Background: Nepal suffered two major earthquakes on April 25th and May 12th 2015. These caused destruction and loss of life in and around the epicentres, Ghorkha and Dolakha districts respectively and across several other areas of the country including the capital, Kathmandu. The damage in Kathmandu was largely in isolated pockets and the city was functioning at near normal levels around a week after the first quake. Aftershocks continue to jolt the country on a regular basis, however these are generally of low intensity and have little effect on day to day life in most cases.
Nepal is currently experiencing monsoon

Many countries governments have travel warnings in action regarding travel to and in Nepal. Check your country’s travel advice. Be aware there are many inconsistencies between the various travel advisories out there.

Be safe, check information sources carefully before you travel.

It is possible to have an amazing and inspiring travel experience in Nepal. As with any journey, prepare well, use common sense and actively seek advice and information to get the best from your trip.

YELLOW AREAS – 14 worst affected districts – DO NOT TRAVEL
The earthquakes of April 25th and May 12th severely affected 14 Districts in the northern

-centre of Nepal. These districts are still very unstable and experiencing severe problems.


Gorkha District in the West to Doloakha and Rhamechhap in the East: Ghorkha District includes the Manaslu trekking area; Rasuwa includes the Langtang area; Dolakha includes the Rolwaling / Ganesh Himal trekking areas.

We would not recommend travel to or through any of these areas, unless working specifically on aid, relief or rebuild missions. People needing to travel to these districts for the above purposes are strongly advised to work with a registered organisation and coordinated with local government offices and police / army.

ICIMOD has advised that these areas are at very high risk of landslide during the monsoon months as heavy rainfall loosens already unstable slopes in these areas.


Map sourced from http://kathmandulivinglabs.github.io/quake-maps/#affected-areas 07.07.15

ORANGE AREAS – travel but exercise caution

Kathmandu: the mid hills and mountains in the centre of the country
Kathmandu Valley (including Bhaktapur and Patan): whilst the majority of the valley suffered only minor damage in both earthquakes there are still many walls, buildings and roads / trails that have been affected, some destroyed completely.

Buildings – the sticker system
We advise you to pay close attention to the buildings you frequent – you should look for the ‘Green Sticker’ on the building’s entrance. The green sticker shows that the building has been assessed for damage and is considered safe to use by government engineers.
Enter ‘Orange’ stickered buildings only if absolutely necessary
Avoid red stickered buildings – keep a good distance from them.

Walking, riding, moving around the city and valley villages
Many places in the city are virtually unaffected however we advise you pay attention to the routes you’re taking – check that walls are uncracked and not leaning, pay attention to the red taped areas around the heritage sites.

Walking around the Kathmandu city has always been a bit of an obstacle course, what with potholes, dirt tracks, traffic and the odd cow or even elephant wandering about. These things are still prevalent (it’s part of the charm!). In addition though be aware that not every wall / house has been checked so keep your eyes open and use common sense.

While the popular heritage sites in Kathmandu have seen some damage, the rubble has been removed and paths created for travellers. Nepal opened its heritage sites on 05th June 2015 officially. Stay clear of red-taped off areas and exercise common sense when moving through small alleyways etc.

One bonus of visiting at this time is a chance to see many of Nepal’s highly skilled artisans and craftsmen at work as they start the time-honoured job of rebuild and renewal (some of our monuments are still being repaired after the 1934 earthquake!)
Running and walking / cycling trails
Watch out for cracks and fractures in running, walking and hiking trails.
Tracks and trails in the valley and beyond change by the day in the monsoon time as heavy downpours cause erosion and small slips and slides. These effects may be heightened by quake loosed earth. The usual guidelines of trekking / biking apply – let someone know your route and expected return time; carry a phone and small first aid kit with you in case of mishaps; don’t be afraid to ask for directions or help from locals.
Mountain areas: trekking, mountain biking, trail running and climbing
At this time of year many of the mountain areas are difficult to access and to move through as heavy rains and dense cloud obscure visibility (for planes) and turn jeep tracks into muddy waterways. This is normal for Nepal. However in addition this year there are still some trail sections that are ay higher risk of landslide and some mountainous areas closer to the affected districts where we may reasonably expect more intense monsoon effects. Talk to locals, use your mountain skills and experience to risk assess routes before your travel and as you move. Stay alert and, as ever, be prepared to change or abandon your trip as conditions change. Use a reputable travel operator.

Trail, bridge and lodge assessments in the main trekking areas
Most reputable travel operators have carried out trail, bridge and lodge assessments in the areas they run trips. These should be available – just ask your agent.

We are also in the process of consolidating these reports into a cross-checked reference document.
In addition world experts teams from Miyamoto have assessed Everest and Annapurna. Their initial report gives both regions the all clear apart from a short section of trail which has already had diversions created. Their report is due on July 19th.

A Swiss backed team of geologists and rural trail experts have also assessed Manaslu area. Trail repairs and bridges are now being worked on. Their report is available on request.

As noted above it is not advised to travel to Langtang, Rolwaling and Manaslu at the moment.
Some areas of Solokhumbu (Kherikhola, Thame area) have been badly affected – check with your travel agency.

BLUE AREAS - travel as same risk pre-earthquake

Many parts of the country were unaffected (or only mildly affected) by the earthquakes.
Lumbini, birthplace of Lord Gautauma Buddha; the tea plantations of Ilam; Lakeside and Pokhara; Janakphur; Chitwan, Bardia and Kosi Tappu National Parks are all operating as normal.

The Annapurnas, Mustang, Dolpo, the Far West and eastern mountains (Kanchenjunga) are largely unaffected by the earthquake. Trekkers and mountain bikers have been enjoying the empty trails there for the past few months. As above, monsoon can have big impacts on safe travel so do exercise caution.

Note: Mustang, Dolpo and Humla are generally not affected by monsoon as they are in the rain shadow.

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Rafting – Limited: rafting opportunities are always limited in the monsoon period. The Bhote Khosi and rafting area is in the YELLOW zone and not operating. Consult your Rafting Outfitter

Bungee Jumping - Limited. Consult your Tour Operator The second highest bungee in the world at the Last Resort is currently closed (YELLOW zone).  There is a possibility it may re-open in autumn. The bungee in Pokhara is operating as normal.

Paragliding & Parahawking Operating as normal although flight opportunities are very limited in the monsoon. Most of the Paragliding and Parahawking happen in Pokhara which sustained little or no damage at all during the earthquake.

Paddle Boarding Operating as normal. This happens in Pokhara’s Phewa Lake and it has sustained no damage at all.

Canyoning  - Not Advisable in popular areas. The most popular canyoning happens in the Bhote Koshi Corridor, in one of the YELLOW districts. In newer opened canyons, use caution as expert assessments have not been done. Talk to your specialist operator

Wildlife Watch / Birding - Operating as normal. Consult your Specialist Provider …..

Festivals - Good to Go. Nepal never stops with regards to festivals. Faith is so big in this country that this goes on. See a list of events on the website to check when you can enjoy it and where. 

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Travel Insurance
Please take car the check your travel insurance is fully valid. Many insurers have ‘exclusions’ against travel to countries where the insured persons’ government has a travel warning in action.
Please check with your insurer before starting your journey. Trekking insurance with helicopter rescue can be purchased in Kathmandu but this will only cover evacuation - 13$ per day

Nepal Tourism Recovery is a collective of travel insiders based in Nepal. Supported by CBI (Holland) and NTB (Nepal) and has the wider acceptance of the national and international tourism industry. All information contained in this document has been checked and verified at the date stated in the header. We cannot however be responsible for third party sourced information. We encourage feedback and welcome new relevant information.


Nepal is awaiting your visit! If you are coming then why not join our profiling campaign – post an image like this to our Facebook page
 
Nepal Tourism Recovery | Strategies & Actions – also a source for other sound honest advice and information. 

Also please visit my blog page – ianoffthewall.blogspot.com for more on Nepal, articles and other relevant information.

Views from around the Kathmandu Valley post April 2015
Part 3 - Hotels around Kathmandu

The Annapurna Hotel


The Shangri La Hotel




Left – Hotel Red Planet & Acme Guest House
Above - Everest Villa Hotel
Right – Near Utse Hotel


12th July 2015

Newsletter August 2019

Nepal is not just about trekking and mountains, Nepal is host to some of the most diverse ecological regions found in the world. At its...