Off the Wall trekking
Newsletter June 2015 - Special Edition
The aim of
this Newsletter is to try to inform, show and encourage people who are interested
in travelling to Nepal this autumn season to set plans in place. We have all
seen the pictures of the doom and gloom but Nepal is not totally as portrayed
in many of the early news programs. People realise that trekking and tourism are
the only real ways to get money back into circulation, especially into the
pockets of the hill people from the trekking regions of the Nepal Himalaya. I
also hope to quell a few concerns and answer a few questions that we have
received that might be of interest to everyone. With this in mind I have also attached
a letter from our ‘Ambassadors’ in a bid to offer further reassurance to
visitors. I make no excuses for more pictures than words!
Nepal is rapidly
picking itself up and the majority of trekking regions and tourist sites are
now open for business, this nation of friendly people, vibrant culture and
exotic festivals eagerly awaits your return. Kathmandu and Pokhara hotels are
fully open, the mountain flights are still offering an exceptional experience
and most of the trekking routes outside the areas listed below are open, all
giving an insight into life in rural and remote Nepal.
Views from around the Kathmandu Valley post April 2015
Part 1 -
Boudha
The Boudha
Stupa was originally constructed around the 5th Century AD, however,
the pre-history of Nepal is based mainly on legend. Today Boudha plays a
significant role in the world wide Buddhist culture.
During the
April earthquake several of the interlocking gilded copper plates towards the
top of the stupa became loose. However, this is not the first time major damage
limitation work has been carried out on the monument. As a precaution craftsmen
have dismantled the top section to ensure that the inner core of the stupa has
not been damaged. Work is already well underway to reinstate the stupa back to
its former glory.
Sarita and I have spent a few very pleasant evenings over at Boudha during the last few weeks, very relaxing!
The
Buddhist philosophy is based on one of impermanence, the Wheel of Life. The
very mountains and landscape of Nepal are also ones of impermanence created by
the uplifting of the Himalaya and the subsequent erosion; from landslides, rock
falls, avalanches, floods, monsoons; all change the face of Nepal and
occasionally earthquakes are thrown into the mix just for good measure. Erosion
occurs in other countries, even low lying Kent in the UK had a 4.2 earthquake a
few weeks ago but the steep sided Himalayan mountains have the additional law
of gravity to assist in the rearranging of mother natures’ cover.
The
1934 earthquake and the subsequent restoration work led to the world wide
recognition of famous Newar architects and builders of a previous generation.
Today
there are many time served master craftsmen working in and around Kathmandu,
Bhaktapur, Patan and even in the hill regions, Kutumsang for example, that it
is believed that there are enough to restore the temples and monuments that
have recently been damaged. Salvage work has long begun to reclaim the bricks
and wooden structures, these are now in storage and will be incorporated into
the restoration of the temples, palaces and Durbar Squares. Work has already
begun felling timber and stacking for the seasoning process.
All
this work will inspire a younger generation and open up opportunities that may
have been overlooked before for carpenters, wood carvers, tin and copper
smiths, temple artisans and artists. Every century as we have earthquakes the
artisans rise to prominence, as their importance increases, it leads to a new
breed of master craftsmen and craftswomen coming up through the ranks. This is
how the heritage of Nepal will continue and survive.
This
is Nepal and these are Nepali people!
Views from around the Kathmandu Valley post April 2015
Part 2 -
Into Thamel and Aason
Thamel of course is the main commercial tourist area of Kathmandu while Aason is the area around the old town centre where the locals go to shop, not far from Durbar Square, images also included here
Thamel of course is the main commercial tourist area of Kathmandu while Aason is the area around the old town centre where the locals go to shop, not far from Durbar Square, images also included here
Tuesday, June 30, 2015
Nepal Tourism Recovery is a collective of travel insiders formed
after the earthquake and based in Nepal. As a group, we
have tried to assimilate the most common questions that are coming from
travelers who are planning trips to Nepal. If your particular question is not
here, please ask us a question and we shall put it on the list as well.
1.
Are the ATMs working?
YES all as normal, just
ensure you have told your bank you are travelling and will be using ATMs in
Nepal
2.
Is there a Cholera Outbreak?
NO but follow all the usual
precautions as previously advised
3.
Is electricity still working?
YES but we are still
subjected to the normal ‘load-shedding’ schedules.
4.
Is the drinking water OK?
Mineral water is still
available for travellers but if you want belt and braces there are many makes
of water purification units around and readily available in the market (some
are now in Nepal)
5.
Can I get from point A to
point B?
Travel is fine at the moment,
the monsoon will no doubt loosen hill sides as it always does but there are
many geologist groups in Nepal monitoring the situation, and will continue to
do so after the monsoon. ICIMOD expect that there will be a very high risk of
landslides in the 14 worst earthquake affected districts but the rest of Nepal
will be at the same level of risk as pre-earthquake.
It is believed that Everest
has sunk about a centimetre but so far no scientific surveys have been
completed with published results. It’s definitely still there!
7.
Is Kathmandu flattened?
Definitely not! Most parts of
the city are working as normal. In many places you would not know there had
been an earthquake - this includes the major tourism hub of Thamel
8.
Are you living above a rubble
mound?
No and there are very few
piles of rubble around, the majority have now been managed or are in the
process of being managed and removed.
Nearly all of the top end-
hotels have been checked and are now open as before, certainly the high profile
(not necessarily the most expensive) ones are. The majority of Thamel hotels
have not yet had a government engineers surveys but they are open for business
as normal. When considering a hotel choice please look for the ‘Green Sticker’,
the official survey stamp that the building is safe. (http://www.drupartment.com/nepal-hotel-status) Check this
portal for hotels that are open for business as normal
Those that have this service
are still providing it
11.
What about food?
Most of the favourite and
popular restaurants are open for business as usual but the same travel advice
applies as it always has done – use hand gel and avoid small ‘local’ back
street restaurants to stay healthy. Many restaurants are closing early (9pm)
but only because there is so little trade
12.
Does the phone and Internet
work?
All communication systems
work as you would normally expect.
13.
Is there lawless behaviour
like looting? NO!
14.
Is there a likelihood of
aftershocks during my visit?
Nepal has always had
earthquakes, on average it gets over twenty per year, many under 4 magnitude so
there always have been tremors. These are now happening in a very short and
mostly gentle form on a regular basis however most people are not even aware of
them happening and the
dogs have stopped barking!
The Exchange Rate - as on the 12th July it stood at 156.69/- to the pound sterling
The Monsoon - Despite the weather forecast the monsoon is still slow in arriving although there has been
heavy rain for some periods of time over the last few weeks. No doubt things will liven up as we get towards the end of July. As happens every year there have been a few mud/landslides but nothing out of the ordinary. Obviously the authorities have an eye on all the main traffic routes, the road to Tibet via the 'Friendship Bridge' is closed but for the moment that is because of the huge landslip that happened earlier this year. This road is also in the NO GO zone mentioned below.
The Monsoon - Despite the weather forecast the monsoon is still slow in arriving although there has been
heavy rain for some periods of time over the last few weeks. No doubt things will liven up as we get towards the end of July. As happens every year there have been a few mud/landslides but nothing out of the ordinary. Obviously the authorities have an eye on all the main traffic routes, the road to Tibet via the 'Friendship Bridge' is closed but for the moment that is because of the huge landslip that happened earlier this year. This road is also in the NO GO zone mentioned below.
More Good News
Nepal
Tourism Recovery is a collective of travel insiders formed after the earthquake
and based in Nepal. The organisation is recognized by Nepal Tourism Board and
has the wider acceptance of the national and international tourism fraternity.
This blogsite strives to provide factual, referenced information from the
ground.
NEPAL TRAVEL ADVISORY
| 08 July 2015 status
BE INFORMED BEFORE YOU TRAVEL
Travel
to and in Nepal is possible and in most areas is at the same level of risk as
pre-earthquake.
The
travel advice you’ll find in this document is therefore differentiated by
geographical area.
·
Yellow
areas: do not travel – the 14 worst affected districts
·
Orange
areas: travel, but use caution
·
Blue:
travel as normal
There
are further details on the following:
·
Transport to and
within Nepal
·
Adventure
activities
·
Cultural and
heritage tours
·
Festivals, events
and more
Background:
Nepal suffered two major earthquakes on April 25th and May 12th
2015. These caused destruction and loss of life in and around the epicentres,
Ghorkha and Dolakha districts respectively and across several other areas of
the country including the capital, Kathmandu. The damage in Kathmandu was
largely in isolated pockets and the city was functioning at near normal levels
around a week after the first quake. Aftershocks continue to jolt the country
on a regular basis, however these are generally of low intensity and have
little effect on day to day life in most cases.
Nepal is currently experiencing
monsoon
Many countries governments have travel
warnings in action regarding travel to and in Nepal. Check your country’s
travel advice. Be aware there are many inconsistencies between the various
travel advisories out there.
Be safe, check information sources
carefully before you travel.
It is possible to have an amazing and
inspiring travel experience in Nepal. As with any journey, prepare well, use
common sense and actively seek advice and information to get the best from your
trip.
YELLOW
AREAS – 14 worst affected districts – DO NOT TRAVEL
The
earthquakes of April 25th and May 12th severely affected
14 Districts in the northern
-centre of Nepal. These districts are still very unstable and experiencing severe problems.
-centre of Nepal. These districts are still very unstable and experiencing severe problems.
Gorkha District in the West to Doloakha and Rhamechhap in the East:
Ghorkha District includes the Manaslu trekking area; Rasuwa includes the
Langtang area; Dolakha includes the Rolwaling / Ganesh Himal trekking areas.
We
would not recommend travel to or through any of these areas, unless working
specifically on aid, relief or rebuild missions. People needing to travel to
these districts for the above purposes are strongly advised to work with a
registered organisation and coordinated with local government offices and
police / army.
ICIMOD
has advised that these areas are at very high risk of landslide during the
monsoon months as heavy rainfall loosens already unstable slopes in these
areas.
Map
sourced from http://kathmandulivinglabs.github.io/quake-maps/#affected-areas
07.07.15
ORANGE AREAS – travel but exercise caution
Kathmandu
Valley (including Bhaktapur and Patan): whilst the majority of the valley
suffered only minor damage in both earthquakes there are still many walls,
buildings and roads / trails that have been affected, some destroyed
completely.
Buildings – the sticker
system
We
advise you to pay close attention to the buildings you frequent – you should
look for the ‘Green Sticker’ on the building’s entrance. The green sticker
shows that the building has been assessed for damage and is considered safe to
use by government engineers.
Enter
‘Orange’ stickered buildings only if absolutely necessary
Avoid
red stickered buildings – keep a good distance from them.
Walking, riding, moving
around the city and valley villages
Many
places in the city are virtually unaffected however we advise you pay attention
to the routes you’re taking – check that walls are uncracked and not leaning,
pay attention to the red taped areas around the heritage sites.
Walking around the Kathmandu city has always been a bit of an obstacle course, what with potholes, dirt tracks, traffic and the odd cow or even elephant wandering about. These things are still prevalent (it’s part of the charm!). In addition though be aware that not every wall / house has been checked so keep your eyes open and use common sense.
While the popular heritage sites in Kathmandu have seen some damage, the rubble has been removed and paths created for travellers. Nepal opened its heritage sites on 05th June 2015 officially. Stay clear of red-taped off areas and exercise common sense when moving through small alleyways etc.
One bonus of visiting at this time is a chance to see many of Nepal’s highly skilled artisans and craftsmen at work as they start the time-honoured job of rebuild and renewal (some of our monuments are still being repaired after the 1934 earthquake!)
Running and walking /
cycling trails
Watch
out for cracks and fractures in running, walking and hiking trails.
Tracks and trails in the valley and beyond change by the day in the monsoon time as heavy downpours cause erosion and small slips and slides. These effects may be heightened by quake loosed earth. The usual guidelines of trekking / biking apply – let someone know your route and expected return time; carry a phone and small first aid kit with you in case of mishaps; don’t be afraid to ask for directions or help from locals.
Tracks and trails in the valley and beyond change by the day in the monsoon time as heavy downpours cause erosion and small slips and slides. These effects may be heightened by quake loosed earth. The usual guidelines of trekking / biking apply – let someone know your route and expected return time; carry a phone and small first aid kit with you in case of mishaps; don’t be afraid to ask for directions or help from locals.
Mountain areas:
trekking, mountain biking, trail running and climbing
At
this time of year many of the mountain areas are difficult to access and to
move through as heavy rains and dense cloud obscure visibility (for planes) and
turn jeep tracks into muddy waterways. This is normal for Nepal. However in
addition this year there are still some trail sections that are ay higher risk
of landslide and some mountainous areas closer to the affected districts where
we may reasonably expect more intense monsoon effects. Talk to locals, use your
mountain skills and experience to risk assess routes before your travel and as
you move. Stay alert and, as ever, be prepared to change or abandon your trip
as conditions change. Use a reputable travel operator.
Trail, bridge and lodge
assessments in the main trekking areas
Most
reputable travel operators have carried out trail, bridge and lodge assessments
in the areas they run trips. These should be available – just ask your agent.
We are also in the process of consolidating these reports into a cross-checked reference document.
In
addition world experts teams from Miyamoto have assessed Everest and Annapurna.
Their initial report gives both regions the all clear apart from a short
section of trail which has already had diversions created. Their report is due
on July 19th.
A Swiss backed team of geologists and rural trail experts have also assessed Manaslu area. Trail repairs and bridges are now being worked on. Their report is available on request.
As
noted above it is not advised to travel to Langtang, Rolwaling and Manaslu at
the moment.
Some
areas of Solokhumbu (Kherikhola, Thame area) have been badly affected – check
with your travel agency.
BLUE AREAS -
travel as same risk pre-earthquake
Lumbini, birthplace of Lord Gautauma Buddha;
the tea plantations of Ilam; Lakeside and Pokhara; Janakphur;
Chitwan, Bardia and Kosi Tappu National Parks are all operating as
normal.
The
Annapurnas, Mustang, Dolpo, the Far West and eastern mountains (Kanchenjunga)
are largely unaffected by the earthquake. Trekkers and mountain bikers have
been enjoying the empty trails there for the past few months. As above, monsoon
can have big impacts on safe travel so do exercise caution.
Note:
Mustang, Dolpo and Humla are generally not affected by monsoon as they
are in the rain shadow.
----------------------------------------
----------------------------------------
Rafting – Limited:
rafting
opportunities are always limited in the monsoon period. The Bhote Khosi and
rafting area is in the YELLOW zone and not operating. Consult your Rafting
Outfitter
Bungee Jumping - Limited. Consult your Tour Operator
The second highest bungee in the world at the Last Resort is currently closed
(YELLOW zone). There is a possibility it
may re-open in autumn. The bungee in Pokhara is operating as normal.
Paragliding &
Parahawking Operating as
normal although flight opportunities are very limited in the monsoon. Most of
the Paragliding and Parahawking happen in Pokhara which sustained little or no
damage at all during the earthquake.
Paddle Boarding Operating as normal. This happens in
Pokhara’s Phewa Lake and it has sustained no damage at all.
Canyoning -
Not Advisable in popular areas. The most popular canyoning happens in the Bhote
Koshi Corridor, in one of the YELLOW districts. In newer opened canyons, use
caution as expert assessments have not been done. Talk to your specialist
operator
Wildlife Watch / Birding - Operating as normal. Consult your
Specialist Provider …..
Festivals
- Good to Go.
Nepal never stops with regards to festivals. Faith is so big in this country that
this goes on. See a list of events on the website to check when you can enjoy
it and where.
-------------------------
Travel Insurance
Please
take car the check your travel insurance is fully valid. Many insurers have
‘exclusions’ against travel to countries where the insured persons’ government
has a travel warning in action.
Please
check with your insurer before starting your journey. Trekking insurance with
helicopter rescue can be purchased in Kathmandu but this will only cover
evacuation - 13$ per day
Nepal
Tourism Recovery
is a collective of travel insiders based in Nepal. Supported by CBI (Holland)
and NTB (Nepal) and has the wider acceptance of the national and international
tourism industry. All information contained in this document has been checked
and verified at the date stated in the header. We cannot however be responsible
for third party sourced information. We encourage feedback and welcome new
relevant information.
Nepal is awaiting your visit! If you are coming then why not join
our profiling campaign – post an image like this to our Facebook page
Nepal Tourism Recovery | Strategies & Actions – also a source for other sound honest advice and information.
Also
please visit my blog page – ianoffthewall.blogspot.com for more on
Nepal, articles and other relevant information.
The
Shangri La Hotel
Left – Hotel Red Planet & Acme Guest
House
Above - Everest Villa Hotel
Right – Near Utse Hotel
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