Friday 4 September 2015

Climbathon 2015



Climbathon 2015 - An Introduction
The team of Climbathon 2015

In 2011, Col Chauhan, IMF President, conceived the idea of providing young people with an opportunity to develop mountaineering skills as part of an 'expedition' program offered by the IMF. By August 2013 this idea had become reality with the first Climbathon taking place on the Bara Shigri Glacier, Himachal Pradesh. At this point the IMF had been in contact with the UIAA and they had expressed an interest in the program and offered the 
IMF support. 

The Assessors
In 2014 the UIAA funded an observer to attend Climbathon and support the initiative and to help with fine tuning the program to meet the criteria to gain UIAA recognition.

By 2015 the Climbathon program had developed and the management team had addressed the concerns raised in 2014, putting in place, among other issues, a vigorous assessment program to run alongside the Introductory 'course'. At the same time the current IMF President was in negotiations with the Ministry of Skill Development, Govt. of India in a bid to get the Climbathon Himalayan Mountain Leader Certification recognised as a valid program resulting in those participants who have undergone training and assessment receiving 'credits' towards vocational courses in the higher education sector. 
The Assessment Candidates

This innovative program has come into being as a result of the dedicated effort and vision of the IMF President supported by the IMF Board and implemented in the field by the Program Leader, Wing-Commander S Kutty and Program Director Dr A Gutoo.

Why Climbathon?
In the 21st Century adventure sports are playing a greater role both in and affecting society and in presenting challenges in everyday life, in many cases these adventure sports are alternatives to the more accepted past-time activities; base-jumping, wing-suit flying, extreme caving, canyoning, the list is almost endless in what people will participate in to get a 'buzz' into their everyday life.

Mountaineering is now up at the top of the 'adventure sports' list. This addiction is driven by several forces, namely commercialism and a personal 'tick-list' that gives the individual a confidence (ego) boost. These 'ticks' are perpetuated by not only market forces but also by a step aside from the norm. The highest, the fastest, the coldest (winter), the most audacious, etc. In 1970 Chris Bonington completed the first climb on the South Face of Annapurna in around four weeks, two years ago Ueli Steck climbed it in 18 hours, descending in another six or so hours. There are unique challenges in mountaineering that are now the 'way to make a name for yourself', to become a motivational speaker, to change life's opportunities - The Seven Summits, The Eight Summits (including the two Poles), the 14 - Eight-Thousanders, and now many of these challenges are being put under time scrutiny. If you reach the summit of Everest then your life will be changed forever.

However, the biggest 'threat' to what mountaineering is all about is 'commercialism' and fast track summit fever. It is said that money can buy anything, and so it can, with virtually no experience, or mountaineering apprenticeship, people can buy their way to the summit of Everest, what would Mallory have to say about that?

This fast growing 'buy it' culture sadly fails to give people a basic understanding of the ethics and techniques involved in our sport. With the modern mountaineering equipment, GPS and Sat navigation tools, rescue services and guides etc, many people get lulled into believing they are invincible, safe and assured of success, if anything goes wrong just call for a helicopter rescue, 'I have a guide I'll reach the summit - and get down again!' In India, as well as in many other high mountain ranges of the world these rescue services are not readily available, the only safe 'rescue' is the individual's own ability to get themselves out of their own mess.

Today's' mountaineers and especially mountain leaders and guides need to be not only experienced but also qualified against a national or internationally recognised standard. To many participants in 'mountaineering' activities failure is not an option and death is even less so. Without experience or a recognised 'leader' qualification the person in charge of a group of trekkers/mountaineers is exposing him or herself to all sorts of litigation and retribution - the world of mountaineering is a changing place.

The IMF, with a view to the future, recognition of a developing tourism market and the fact that more people are looking for a mountaineering experience, accept the value of transferable skills in what is always a potentially dangerous environment (mountain regions). With this in mind the IMF instigated the Climbathon program to meet many of these new challenges combining transferable leadership skills with team building skills and using mountaineering as the main theme to accomplish its mission.

Background to Mountaineering Expeditions (and Leadership) in India 
A Climbathon Expedition about to leave Base Camp

The development of mountaineering in India has followed a completely different route to that of mountaineering in Europe. [This must be kept in mind when it comes to reviewing the Assessment process.] The senior services of India very much lead the way in terms of developing mountaineering and mountain related activities, even today there are virtually no private expeditions, all fall under the leadership of one or other of the 'Services'.

The IMF was formed in 1957 as the Sponsoring Committee for the 1958 Indian Cho Oyu Expedition and which subsequently summited on May 15 of that year. Encouraged by this Indian achievement the Committee continued to encourage and sponsor future expeditions. In 1959 the organisation changed its name to the 'Sponsoring Committee of Everest Expedition and in the following year, 1960, to the `Sponsoring Committee for Mountaineering Expeditions. Finally, on January 15, 1961 a permanent organization was set up as the national body, with headquarters in New Delhi and was registered as such on November 3, 1961. Its building was inaugurated by Prime Minister Indira Gandhi in 1980.

The main objectives of the IMF are to organize, support and provide a base for mountaineering expeditions, rock climbing, trekking at high altitudes and to promote, encourage, support and execute schemes for related adventure activities and environmental protection work in the Himalaya. With this in mind many of the Climbathon 2015 participants have been on large Service backed expeditions to the high mountains, including Everest, Kamet, Cho Oyu, Nanda Devi, Saser Kanri and Kanchenjunga, yet they lack having gone through an 'apprenticeship' stage of mountaineering missing out on the intuitive learning gained from finding their own way into the 'adventurous' aspect of making mistakes and learning from them. Despite reaching the highest places on Earth these members were totally unprepared for the style of expedition approach presented to them by Climbathon.

Historically all the main Indian mountaineering expeditions have been backed by one of the three armed forces (Army, Navy, Air Force) and the para-military forces. The leadership of such expeditions was delegated according to rank and command, discipline and all aspects of planning and implementation was carried out in line with the standard protocol of the chain of command. Less attention was paid to developing a team spirit modelled around what, today, would be called 'leadership skills'.
 
Ouch! Watch those fingers in the pulley.
Keeping in mind the IMF remit to promote, encourage, support and execute schemes for related adventure activities and environmental protection work in the Himalaya the IMF now deliver courses on High Altitude and Mountain Medicine Course (HAMMC) for MBBS doctors, the Wilderness First Aid Responder Course and is now developing the 'Climbathon Brand' with the Climbathon Introductory Himalayan Mountaineering program and the Climbathon Himalayan Mountain Leader Certification, based on a vigorous assessment program and soon to be considered, a Climbathon Survival Program.
  
Climbathon - Concept to Assessment 



Originally Climbathon was designed as an Himalayan Mountaineering Program where the objective was for each participant to develop his or her climbing skills on rock, snow, and ice. The course provided a comprehensive introduction to all the skills associated with mountaineering in India. The first Climbathon in 2013 contained several elements that might be seen on a services training camp, route marches, a strong service based discipline and an expectation where participants would conform to the ethics as perceived and valued on a services mountaineering expedition. Sadly this was not the case and the overall program fell far short of the IMF anticipated outcome.

In 2014 steps were taken to address many of the issues raised as a result of the 2013 Climbathon experience. Certain elements were taken out of the program to be replaced by many new 'leadership' skills and training elements along with the techniques required for roped teams to move safely on glaciers and leading on snow, rock and ice. This was all in preparation for an expedition to a small non-technical summit in which all of the skills developed during the program would be employed in a mountain setting. The overall safety of the group expedition was carried out by instructors that had been invited to attend the program and who accompanied the participants on the expedition. Unfortunately again gaps appeared that had not been envisaged during the course of planning Climbathon 2014. There was a big disparity within the participant group in their concept of what the Climbathon mission was focused on, their previous experience and physical fitness differed widely and in some cases participants from both the introductory group and the instructor group believed that once in the mountains it was acceptable for 'summit fever' to replace training sessions.

During the running of the actual program many discussions took place between the Climbathon Program Director, the Course Director and the UIAA Observer with the aim of identifying the areas where it was felt Climbathon could make changes to positively focus on the main objectives of developing leadership skills and team building alongside the core elements of developing mountaineering skills. Once back in the IMF Headquarters in Delhi extensive talks took place between the President and the UIAA Observer so as to get a clear picture as to where the IMF wanted the Climbathon Program to go in the future and also the expected outcomes concerning the UIAA.

By 2015 the Climbathon management team had addressed many of the previously identified concerns and issues. A Participant Log Book was established so as to gain a deeper insight into the participant's previous experience and a doctor's certificate was requested clarifying the state of participant's health. With regard to the way forward as identified by the IMF President in 2014 an Assessment element was added in 2015 to create qualified IMF Himalayan Mountain Leaders. The core activity for Climbathon 2015 was to focus on 'Leadership Skills' and 'Team Building Skills' centered round the ethics of mountaineering and mountaineering skill development. This included introducing topics on Leadership and Communication skills using role play, Responding to Disaster, Crisis and Team Conflict, Gender Issues and Expectations, First Aid, Mountain Health and AMS issues, Mountaineering Ethics, Assessing Hazards and Managing Risks, Decision Making and Judgement, and Developing a Mountain Sense. The program concluded with all groups completing a reccy of their intended mountaineering objective before setting off on their final expedition.

There is strong evidence of the Service background within the way the Assessment Program is run and the approach employed by both the Assessment team and the Program Directors, this is to retain 'discipline' and to give added value to the overall Climbathon team building experience. Participants fall in every morning in group ranks, they address all staff as 'Sir' and follow protocol, if 'senior' officers deliver presentations then the perceived 'junior' officers leave the area. In reality this initially caused a lack of understanding as many of the concepts being delivered by the Program Director were new to participants, at all levels; the soft-core elements of leadership (Gender, Leadership styles, Disaster management etc are, on service expeditions, the domain of the senior officers.) In the modern world of small team expeditions all members need to share and understand this knowledge. There are many different styles of learning and to ensure the participants fully understand the concept under discussion the presenter uses different techniques to deliver the message, role-play, interactive learning and simulations as well as the more traditional teaching methods.

Climbathon 2015 and the Assessment Process

The IMF have conducted three Climbathon programs, 2013, 2014 and 2015. With an eye to the future developments in education, vocational skill development, the tourism sector and with the aim of getting UIAA accredited the IMF has now introduced an Indian base-line quality bench-mark assessment program for potential Indian Himalayan Mountain Leaders.

Pre - Climbathon 2015 a three-day Assessors' Training Workshop took place at the IMF Headquarters in Delhi prior to leaving for Manali. This included sessions on What is Climbathon?, the Role of the Assessor (and the Assessment Candidate), Teaching and Learning Methods, Professionalism and Expected Behaviour, Managing Conflicts, Complaints and Problem Solving, Feed-back Skills, The Process of Assessment and finally and in depth, Developing a Consensus on Core Competencies.

The Assessment process keeps in mind the historical Service background of mountaineering in India, the 'hard-core' mountaineering elements (knots, rescue, belays, techniques etc) while also addressing the 'soft -core' elements (Gender issues, leadership styles, Resolving Conflict, Meeting Expectations etc) of leadership.

Candidates wishing to attend an Introductory Climbathon program will be provided with an electronic Log Book to ensure they meet the IMF criteria and thus avoid any issues that have previously occurred during the Climbathon program.

The pre-requisite for applying for assessment is that every participant successfully completes an Introductory Climbathon program and log-book. He or she will then enter the program and then gain personal experience over the next year (minimum time gap) at which point they may apply for assessment. However in the early stages of establishing the Assessment program and the Himalayan Mountain Leader qualification suitable and promising Introductory Candidates will be invited for Assessment. Some Assessment candidates may be exempt from the Introductory Program on submitting a personal log-book indicating exceptional experience and/or other qualifications.

Once enrolled and accepted onto an Assessment program an assessment candidate is in charge of leading a group of approximately 6 Introductory Participants through all the activities programmed, giving instructions, coaching or supporting where necessary and throughout the duration of the program will ultimately be responsible for absolute group safety demonstrating good leadership skills, dealing with any of the problems that the group or the chosen route may present and in general presenting a good role model. The final element of the Assessment is to lead their group on a small expedition to a local peak 6000m - 6500m to underline their leadership and mountaineering ability.

The Assessors are selected instructors from leading Mountaineering Institutes in India and possess not only evidence of exceptional leadership and instructional skills in the field of mountaineering but also have good and relevant expedition experience. The Assessors shadow each assessment candidate throughout the Climbathon Program, only intervening when safety becomes an issue. Assessors have a predetermined 'Assessment - Core Elements' Monitoring sheet on which they mark each candidate's ability according to a predetermined tariff. At regular intervals throughout the program the Assessors meet to discuss individual candidates. To avoid issues of either a personal or personality nature the Assessors rotate so each Assessment Candidate will have at least two different Assessors giving an over-view of his/her performance. During the course of assessment the Assessor will try to identify candidates who show both outstanding leadership and mountaineering skills and who might provide the right and exemplary role model so as to act as assessor in the future.

On completion of the Assessment Program a candidate will be provided with a passport sized log-book (hard copy) for his/her individual use, relevant comments of a constructive nature will be entered into this by the IMF based on the Assessors' reports and the assessment process. The Log-book will also act as a record of individual continuous professional development (CPD) and also as a license and proof of qualification.

The Log-book will consist of several sections:-

Pre Climbathon Introductory program experience - completed by the participant and substantiated if possible

Climbathon Introductory Program - completed by the group leader if there are any outstanding features

Experience gained between Introductory and Assessment programs - completed individually

Assessment Climbathon - completed with outcome/relevant constructive comments by the Assessor, including recommendations as to future Climbathon involvement.

Post Assessment Experience - this demonstrates general skill development in terms of leadership including non-mountaineering activities

First Aid qualification

Renewals. 

Candidates may present themselves for Assessment if they possess and can substantiate their experience and a solid base of mountaineering knowledge at which time they may be considered for an exemption to the Introduction program. Exemption at Assessment level is not permissible.

Environment Cleaning Program

There is an increasing awareness and concern in India over environment negative impact. Climbathon is particularly concerned over the negative impact of climbing expeditions in the Indian Himalaya, to this end throughout its Climbathon program participants regularly conduct environmental audits of their passing through the rural and remote area - what waste is created and of what specific nature, wet, dry, bio-degradable, recyclable etc. The IMF in collaboration with other organisations organises and supports Environment Base Camp Cleaning programs.

Climbathon 2015 - Outcomes

Climbathon 2015 was conducted with 30 participants entering the Introductory program, five candidates were assessed by five Assessors and a Moderator Assessor also acting as a Chief Instructor. From of these: -

Candidates who fulfilled the Assessment criteria - 2 Assessors who met the Assessment criteria and were thus were exempt Assessment - 6

Assessment Candidates recommended for an Assessor role in 2016 - 2

Assessment Candidates who were failed - 2

Assessment Candidates who were deferred pending further experience - 1 requiring additional 'leadership/feed-back experience, log-book to be resubmitted to the IMF by the end of March 2016

Seven people received the IMF Climbathon Indian Himalayan Mountain Leaders Award thus creating a tourism mountain related qualified workforce of 7 plus the expected success of the one 'deferral' in March 2016.

Overview of the total process

Pre Climbathon Application Process

Application via submission of log-book evidence - vigorously scrutinised - in some cases application rejected on grounds of lack of experience - process excellent and transparent

Submission of a medical certificate, signed off by a GP, in some cases application rejected on grounds of a condition that might be aggravated by altitude - process excellent and transparent

Participation in Climbathon - performance monitored by assessors, issues of concern are openly discussed by the Assessment Team, constructive advice or warnings are given, usually on grounds of behaviour - an outcome is reached as a result of moderation by the staff, the process is excellent and transparent.

Selection of participants for Assessment - performance monitored by Assessors on the Introductory Program, performance and attitude are 'graded', cross referencing by Assessors and a jointly agreed grade, against Assessment Criteria is decided upon - process is excellent and transparent - recommendations forwarded and recorded.

Assessment participants - are invited by the IMF if previously recommended but in future individuals may apply on the submission of a log-book when completion of an Introductory program might be exempted, all participant evidence of practice are recorded and filled in the IMF, rejected candidates are usually rejected on the grounds of lack of appropriate experience - process is excellent and transparent .

Assessment - all participants, at this level are subjected to an assessment program, all candidates will be assessed by at least two assessors, regular assessor meetings are held to moderate results, rolling records are kept and referred to at each assessor meeting - final outcome -Pass, Deferral, Fail - process is excellent and transparent.

Future continuous professional development - assessment participants who show aptitude and all the relevant skills are recommended, subject to experience, to become assessors, these discussions take place at the final moderation meeting - this is not a pass/fail situation but it is based on suitable role models with the appropriate skill - process is excellent and transparent.

The aim if the IMF cross referencing Mountain Leadership and Vocational Training

The IMF has continued with its mission of supporting those young people who wish to develop and succeed in mountaineering activities and to that end the IMF, through the President, are pursuing a program of vocational skill training. This is being conducted by identifying roles within mountaineering that match jobs within industry, for example, catering, environmental management, logistical management, man management etc. These experiences would then be linked into the vocational training qualification scheme whereby an individual could gain 'mountaineering' credits to support a lack of formal education thus enabling a wider percentage of the disadvantaged population access to higher education. The Himalayan Mountaineering Leadership program contributes to this development policy building on the experiences gained in trekking and mountaineering expeditions.

Summary of Climbathon 2015

Climbathon 2015 was organised and delivered in a highly professional manner. It maintained discipline through a combination of both the tried and tested 'Service' methods with the inclusion of a more 'rounded' approach. Climbathon delivered what it had previously announced it would deliver and in the per-prescribed manner.

Learning sessions included both the hard-core mountaineering skills as well as the soft-core leadership/team building skills. Teaching methods included a spread of different styles, ranging from role-play to interaction through formal teaching sessions and group presentations and experience sharing.

The program included specific planning to incorporate acclimatisation and rest days, although the latter were ostensibly the times for 'class-room' learning sessions.

The time-table was adhered to in terms of daily activities and sessions. Assessment was vigorously pursued with in-depth monitoring of Assessment Candidates being scrutinised at all times against a per-determined Assessment Concept. The Assessment took place in sections - Batal to Snout Camp, Snout Camp to Base Camp, Base Camp to Advanced Camp and then the expedition element. At the end of each section the Assessors reviewed each candidates performance and then present their conclusions amongst themselves giving time for Assessor interaction and feed-back. At this point the Assessors also changed groups so as to allow for several Assessors to ultimately review and assess a candidates performance.

Climbathon - Participant and Assessment Program

In Delhi - a 3 day Training of Assessors Program was conducted. This program included:- An Overview of Climbathon, Role of the Assessor (teaching/learning methods), Professionalism and Expected Behaviour, Managing Conflicts, Complaints and Behaviour Problems, Feed Back skills, The Assessment Process and Log-Books and Developing Consensus and Core Competencies.

In Manali - a 2 day program for the Assessment Candidates in which registration was completed and teams were designated. Sessions included, Leadership, Communication and Responding to Disasters.

In Snout Camp - the Introductory participants were lead by the Assessment Candidates on the topics of River Crossings, Avalanche Search, Acclimatisation, Crisis and Team Conflict, Gender Issues, First Aid, Mountaineering Ethics, Assessing Potential Hazards, Managing Risk, Camp Hygiene/Sanitation and Developing a Mountain Sense.

At Base Camp - Situation Awareness, Survival/bivi skills, mountaineering skills; rope work and knots, improvisation, glacier work, climbing mixed terrain, using crampons and ice axe, assessing snow bridges, crevasse rescue, avalanche Risk, belays

Expedition - selecting a suitable expedition peak taking into account expectations and ability, completing a reccy, preparing for the expedition and completing the expedition over three days.

Return to Manali for the final debriefing.






1 comment:

  1. this one: "Male den Teufel nicht an die Wand" which translated is: "Do not paint the devil.corporate training

    ReplyDelete

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