Saturday 24 September 2016

2016 Off the Wall Newsletter August 11


The headline image for this edition is of crossing the Mendokrin Lek before descending to the west of Crystal Mountain and then down to Shey, Dolpo.

Over the last three years there have been various well publicised events that not only shocked the mountaineering world but also Nepal as a nation, the fight on Everest, the avalanche and then the earthquake.  All of this was followed by a political dispute with India who then imposed economic sanctions on Nepal. The world offered support both financial and practical but a government without a vision failed to respond positively and apart from the Sherpa people who set about immediately rebuilding their communities most of the other affected areas of Nepal struggled on.

A tented camp is still occupied near the Hyatt Hotel Boudha


Sixteen months after the earthquake and many people, especially those from the remoter and poorer areas are still waiting for the promised government financial support. But this lack of compassion is also evident in Kathmandu, there is very little sign of domestic accommodation development, however, new hotels are springing up like weeds in the monsoon. There are of course all sorts of reasons publicised by the government as to why this relief process is not running efficiently.

Nepal’s Budget
In May the Finance Minister Bishnu Poudel presented the budget of 1,048,920,000,000 NRs (approx £7,089,213,300) for the fiscal year 2016/17 to Parliament. This represents a 28% increase on the current fiscal year with a focus on the implementation of the constitution, acceleration of development work and the reduction of poverty. The Government also allocated 140 billion NRs for post-quake reconstruction and rehabilitation work, pledging that earthquake-affected families will also receive an additional NRs 300k each, approximately £20,000.  Civil servants’ salaries were increased by 25 percent while social security allowance and allowances provided to the disabled, single woman and endangered communities have also been doubled.

The government also announced the policy to produce electricity by levying five percent tax on petroleum products with a commitment to end load shedding by 2018 by producing 10,000 megawatts of hydroelectricity. NRs 26.5 billion have been allocated for the School Sector Development Program.

In general the Nepalese population believe that this was a good budget and it looks like Prime Minister Oli has strengthened his hold on the role of PM for the foreseeable future. I hope this will now lead to a period of political stability, a renewed confidence in Nepal’s future and a concerted effort to attend to the future security of those families affected by the earthquake.

And then?
‘Maoists quit government’
Tuesday, July 12th, 2016 Nepali Times
The CPN (Maoist-Centre), the ruling UML’s main coalition partner, has decided to withdraw its support of the KP Oli government. After a meeting with top Maoist leaders at his own residence in Lazimpat on Tuesday, the CPN (Maoist-Centre) Chair Pushpa Kamal Dahal sent a letter to Prime Minister KP Oli saying his party is no longer in the government.

Now, if PM Oli fails to persuade Dahal to withdraw his decision – which he succeeded in doing two months ago – his government will collapse. The Maoists are likely to forge a coalition with the main opposition NC and form a new government. In the letter to PM Oli, Dahal justified his party’s decision by blaming the ruling UML for failing to implement the nine-point agreement signed between the two sides in May.

In the first week of May, the Maoists were all set to separate themselves from the Oli government and form a new coalition with the NC. However, hours before the Maoists and the NC were to sign a pact, Oli persuaded Dahal to stay in the government by signing the nine-point agreement.

Expeditions
Spring is now the ‘normal’ season for expeditions to Everest. Initially the number of expeditions requesting climbing permits this year was low, however, at the last minute, the Ministry of Tourism honoured their pledge to accept those expeditions who had permits for the 2015 season but cancelled due to the earthquake and announced they would be accepted them for both the 2016 and 2017 seasons. At the same time it was also announced that the permits issued in 2014 but were not used due to the avalanche would also be honoured for the next five years, through to 2019.

An expedition permit must be obtained by every
expedition planning to climb a peak in Nepal
image Ian Wall
Various foreign organisations offer incentives to their members who summit Everest, the Indian armed services acknowledge summating Everest with instance promotion, which obviously includes a wage and pension increase, the stakes are high. At the end of the Everest 2016 season a story emerged that two police officers from the Pune Police Force (Bengal) allegedly manipulated photographs to prove that they summated Everest. These were submitted to the Nepal Department of Tourism as proof of their success which was duly acknowledged.  However, a possible fraud was recognised by other expedition members who verified that the husband and wife team had throughout the expedition been wearing red and black down suits, in the summit photos they appeared to be wearing yellow and black suits, their boots had also changed and a complaint was filed at the Maharashtra Police Commissioner’s office (Bengal). In July the Nepal Tourism Department recommended that the Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation take a formal decision to impose a 10-year ban on Dinesh Chandrakant Rathod and his wife Tarkeshwari Chandrakant Bhelerao from visiting Nepal for mountaineering expeditions, to cancel their summit certificates and to charge them with forgery and fraud.

The top two images are the orriginals while the lower ones
have been manipulated Images THT
This scandalous situation gave rise to an investigation into the part played by the Liaison Officers (LO) in the expedition industry. LOs are allocated to all expeditions attempting mountains over 6500m their role is to assist the expedition and to help resolve local issues and they must also provide evidence of summit bids and successes post expedition. According to the Tourism Law they should stay at Base Camp for the duration of the expedition, a job for which on Everest they receive nearly 3000 US $. During the Spring Everest season 2016 it has been discovered that nearly 50 per cent of the liaison officers never reached Everest base camp and thus did not carry out their paid duties representing the 33 expedition teams. The majority of LOs who trekked to the height of 5,300 metres, Base Camp, on the other hand, `vanished within minutes after taking a few images for their keepsake and social media bragging.’ The Himalayan Times quote
A long line helicopter evacuation

Long-line evacuation by helicopter
Aside from that instance bringing Everest back into media attention the weather conditions also had a serious impact on some other expeditions. Two German nationals along with their 18 Nepalese staff were stranded in the Saribung Himal following a strong snowstorm on Friday 13th May and had to be rescued using helicopters and ‘long line’ techniques. Everest saw the death of five climbers including three from India and one from Australia, all above the higher camps.

Over the last few days of May areas of the Himalaya experienced very unsettled weather with strong winds and rapidly dropping temperatures which caused several other expeditions to pull back off their objectives.



Dolpo, our trek and small expedition 

This could almost be a scene from the film Himalaya. Trekkers watching a group of yaks traversing a typical 

In May I took to the hills with friends from Australia and Nepal, an extended trip to the farthest reaches of northern Dolpo, in fact to within half a kilometre of the border with Tibet/China.

This region never ceases to amaze me with its pure remote and wild beauty. In terms of Nepali trekking numbers not many people visit this area and if they do they tend to go to Shey before heading east and eventually leaving either via Juphal or Jomsom. We wanted to go into the district 4 days to the north of Shey for an attempt on a small but unclimbed peak, a long and hard extension and one that ideally requires at least four to five weeks to complete. Although the Great Himalayan Trail goes through this area even that fails to enter the northern most sanctuary. Passing through the small community of Kuwgaon the local residents said they could not remember the last time foreigners had passed through if ever, and there were one or two elder people in the community! Although Dolpo is not known for its lofty snowy peaks it does provide serious high altitude tough trekking, most of the routes to the north of Shey are above 3800m with many passes over 5000m. If you are looking for a real ‘off the wall’ experience then northern most Dolpo can certainly provide all the right ingredients. Oh! And the expedition, well we spent five days in Base Camp with the weather slowly deteriorating, in the end we sadly ran out of time and good days. Our Nepali friends had a good crack at the route getting to within 200 - 250mts of the summit but the weather and conditions on the route were .. well it’ll be there next year!

The team, literally chilling, out at our Base Camp
Image Ian Wall
Post earthquake Megre School
Many of you kindly supported our efforts with the reconstruction of the school in Megre post earthquake. This project is nearly completed and will be occupied for teaching as usual post monsoon when there will be an official opening. The project included the construction of 4 class-rooms and a toilet block for boys and a separate one for girls. Originally we planned to build six class-rooms but the new government policy called for an increased in size of an individual room which meant we could only go for a four room structure. The outside of the building will be cement rendered and then painted. Earthquake resistant technology was also included in the design.
 











Sherpas on Top
Sherpas have always been the back bone and work force of many successful expeditions. Over the more recent years many foreign groups have successfully climbed routes in good Alpine-style. Now the Sherpa (ethnic group) as well as climbers from other ethnic groups are climbing and running their own expeditions for their own pleasure and enjoyment. During the autumn 2015 season Chobutse 6,686m, West Face, the Dorjee Sherpa Route, was climbed by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa. This 1,200m route starts in the Rolwaling Valley immediately below Chobutse. Initially ascending the west ridge before descending 60m to the foot of the main face from here the route continues up the steep snow face.

Chobutse with the line taken by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
 on his solo ascent Image Ian Wall
Chobutse with the line taken by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa on his solo ascent © Ian Wall
Mingma climbed solo but after being stranded for two days and nights on the summit without food or shelter he was evacuated by helicopter.
Also in the Rolwaling Valley Thakar-Go East 6,152m, Langdak 6,220m, and Raungsiyar 6,224m were all climbed as part of the same expedition by three fellow Sherpas, Tashi Sherpa, Dawa Gyalie Sherpa and Nima Tenji Sherpa. The team climbed three new routes up previously unclimbed mountains in the same area. Now at the time of writing news is coming through that Tashi Sherpa, Nima Tenji Sherpa accompanied by Tenzeng Sherpa successfully climbed the West Rib of Mt Denali – it is reported that eight Nepalese climbers made it to the summit of Denali this spring season. The boys are coming of age .. well done lads!

The Sherpa summit team on Denali having completed
the West Rib image Nima Sherpa

Dalai Lama’s birthday
Zealous policing at Boudhanath Image Kathmandu Post
On a less cheerful note, in July the Buddhist world celebrated the Dalai Lama’s birthday. Being squeezed between India and China Nepal has signed up to a non-political neutral partnership protocol with both India and China, Nepal will not take a stand that upsets either our northern or southern neighbours, (except when it suits them as in the standoff during the blockade that started nearly a year ago). In Kathmandu Boudhanath is the Tibetan enclave where many Tibetan monasteries and schools of Tibetan teaching are situated.

The Songtsen Brikuti School in Boudhanath was where the Tibetan community was scheduled to celebrate the 81st birthday of the Dalai Lama. However, on the 6th July the area was overrun by Nepalese police who disrupted the celebrations and detained approximately 30 Tibetans including the Tibetan Settlement Officer despite the fact that the proper permission had been granted by the Nepalese authorities for the function.  The celebratory event was cancelled. Interesting to note the heavy-handed police officer on the right of the picture is female.

Weather and the Monsoon
I guess many of you will have read and heard about the serious flooding in northern India, well Nepal hasn’t escaped the wet weather either. There have been torrential downpours, which I have to say were much needed, but along with that there has been the usual devastating landslides. The road south into India was blocked for several days and again this prevented supplies from reaching Kathmandu, petrol stations were again closed and long queues formed. In other areas much more serious incidents have been reported. As a result of indiscriminate development and a lack of monitoring the heavy rains seriously eroded the Bhote Koshi banks in the Sindapalchowk district which collapsed taking over 200 houses from Tatopani VDC's Larcha to Liping into the water.


Indiscriminate building, no planning and even less monitoring
leads to more tragedy in Sindupalchowk
Is Nepal on another planet?
The International Astronomical Union has now named a 9.8km (six mile) wide crater on Mars ‘Langtang’. Dr de Haas, who studies Mars's physical geography at Utrecht University in the Netherlands, told the BBC that he chose Langtang because his colleague had worked there while studying Himalayan glaciers.

Dr de Haas went onto to say "It was his base camp for a long period, so we said maybe it's a nice tribute to call [the crater] Langtang". Langtang is a "scientifically important" crater, "the marks on the top of the crater wall were probably water flows, and below them you can see ridges - the remains of former glaciers."

The Langtang Crater on Mars Image NASA
Another ‘Everest’ story
Lhakpa Sherpa exhibiting her seventh Everest Summit Certificate
In the spring season 2016 Lhakpa Sherpa, summated Everest for the seventh time, breaking her own world record for the number of ascents by a woman. Lhakpa is 43 and a mother of three. She was born in the shadow of Makalu, Nepal but has travelled repeatedly to the Himalaya from her home in the USA, where she works as a housekeeper. Lhakpa first climbed Everest in 2000 as part of the Nepali Women Millennium Expedition. 

Lhakpa Sherpa exhibiting her seventh Everest Summit
 Certificate
At a gathering of mountaineers in Kathmandu, post expedition Lhakpa met US-based Romanian-born climber George Dijmarescu, who she went on to marry. But during the 2004 Connecticut Everest Expedition, she and Djimarescu had a violent altercation that left her seriously hurt, and sparked a small media sensation in the mountaineering world. The couple divorced in 2015, after a lengthy court battle.

Lhakpa intends to try to make the summit of Everest 10 times, in October 2016 she is returning to Nepal in an  attempt to climb Cho Oyu, she has also got K2 in her sights, having been beaten by bad weather on her first attempt in 2010.

The World’s highest marathon, yes ‘on Everest’
They're off! Everest marathon runners descend from Everest
Base Camp at the start of the race. Image THT
This annual event marks the anniversary of the first ascent by Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary in 1953. This year a Nepali soldier won the Everest marathon, Bed Bahadur Sunuwar was one of more than 150 local and foreign runners in the race, which began at Everest base camp. The winner completed the race, which ended about 2,000 metres further down the valley in Namche Bazaar, in four hours and 10 seconds.



Problems in Upper Mustang for mountaineering expedition
During the first week of July an expedition comprising of two foreign mountaineers was prevented from entering Upper Mustang by the local people. The expedition to Arniko Chuli 6039m, SW of Lo Manthang, was told that they could not progress through Upper Mustang during the ‘growing season’ because this is considered to bring bad omens into the area, anything from hailstorms to cyclones, causing the crops to fail. Despite paying all the taxes and obtaining the required permissions for mountaineering in Kathmandu before setting off the local people elected to impose the ban on foreigners entering the area from the Tiji festival in April up to September. The local Upper Mustang residents can fine foreigners, under local traditions, who breach this law. After receiving a complaint from the climbers, the Department of Tourism’s director Laxman Sharma told the expedition members that the department took this situation very seriously and would look into the case. Upper Mustang of course relies heavily on the revenue generated by tourism.

Mountain Rescue – Nepal
Ms Phunjo Lama
By 1973 the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) had been established with the uncompromising mission ‘to reduce casualties in the Nepal Himalaya’. Since then things have moved on, and sadly not always in the right direction with many issues related to an abuse of the insurance system becoming well known. However, you can’t tar everyone with the same brush. Several years ago the Swiss took Nepal literally under their wing and supported the helicopter rescue training of experienced Nepalese helicopter pilots and mountaineers come rescuers.

Recently Ms. Phunjo Lama became the first female from Nepal to train as a long-line rescuer (Aerial Rescue) which she completed in Switzerland. The technique is often referred to a "Long Line" or "Short Haul", and is similar to other helicopter long line systems in use throughout the world.

HFRS (Helicopter Flight Rescue System) involves the lowering of a crew member, sometimes by several metres to beneath the landing gear of the helicopter, this allows the pilot to hover clear of physical danger while the crew member is lowered to the casualty on the mountain. The evacuation is often completed when the crew member clips the casualty into the long line then both are flown, hanging beneath the helicopter, to an area more conducive to landing and providing medical treatment. Congratulations Phunjo.

Glacial Melt
The overflow system installed in Rolwaling at Tsho Rolpa
Image Ian Wall
There is growing concern over the rising water levels of Himalayan lakes due to climate change, melting glaciers and melting semi-permanent snow fields, additional concern has been raised as a result of the 2015 earthquake which scientists believe weakened the natural moraine dam structure.

In June 2016 approximately 40 Nepal Army personnel supported by members of the high altitude communities of the Khumbu (Everest region) began work to drain some of the water out of Imja Lake, 5000m near Island Peak. With financial assistance from the UN the army constructed an outlet system to gradually release the water over a period of 45 days and to reduce the water level by three metres. The outlet will be similar in design to that constructed in 2000 to address concerns over the water levels in Tsho Rolpa, Rolwaling. At this time of year the weather is bad with monsoon precipitation falling as snow accompanied by seasonal low cloud. The army also lifted heavy earth moving equipment to help the personnel on the ground.
Heavy earth moving equipment at Imja Lake and the line of the new overflow channelAdd caption
Despite two failed rounds calling for international bidding for the contract the army was called in as the situation was declared as a matter of urgency. It is reported that this is the highest altitude disaster risk mitigation work ever carried out by an army team in the world. One can only imagine the catastrophic disaster that would be inflicted on those communities and the environment situated lower downstream in the event of the glacial lake outburst.

Helicopters in Nepal
The Dragon being assembled in the workshops at the International
Airport Image Fishtail
Nepal has recently acquired several new (nearly new!) helicopters. Fishtail Air has a Heli Linth B3e (H125) helicopter called Dragon as it is painted with a big animated dragon in its livery. The Dragon aircraft was dismantled into pieces, the fuselage, tail boom and rotors and was then transported in a container through the road system from Calcutta, India to Kathmandu, Nepal. The dismantled parts in the container passed customs at Birgunj in Nepal and have now been reassembled in Tribhuwan International Airport by a team of engineers. The `Dragon’ aircraft will get a new livery in Fishtail Air colours. In 2015 two brand new Mi-17V-5 helicopters were delivered to the Nepal Army from Russia and Simirik Air purchased a new Bell Helicopter, the 407 GXP and an AS350B3 (first registered 2005).
Helicopters and Everest
Three images of 'luxuries' at Everest Base Camp
After years of denied requests from both international guides and local mountain workers, Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism finally in 2016, granted permission to use a helicopter to transport rope-fixing gear from Base Camp to Camp 1 on Everest’s South Col route, bypassing the treacherous Khumbu Icefall and thereby sparing the mountain workers some of their time exposed to the deadly zone this season.

On April 23, 2016 a helicopter made six trips to Camp 1 (6,035 meters, or 19,800 feet) in the Western Cwm to deliver ropes, anchors, and oxygen for the Nepali workers—a total of
roughly 2,866 pounds of equipment.
The helicopters saved only approximately 84 loads out of a thousand or more that are estimated to traverse the ice fall every season. It is estimated that they could cut another 50 percent or more of the loads using a mix of helicopters, storing gear at Camp 2, and restricting all the luxuries and ridiculous other clutter that is perceived as being required at Camp 2 by clients and agents fighting for the client’s business (like carpeting, chairs, tables, huge kitchens and kitchen staff, and solar panels). What would Mallory have thought?
Some images of life in camp on Everest – admittedly not all goes beyond Base Camp but some luxuries certainly do, either way it all needs transporting to the foot of the mountain and back again.

The effect of the UK – EU spat?
Sadly the shock waves are rippling round the world. As has been widely announced the pound has come in for a hammering and today 27th July it has slipped to 137/- NRs with the dollar at 105/- NRs this is a reduction from 160/- NRs and 108/- only a few weeks back. However the exchange rate always moves pre-monsoon, the real test is to see if it recovers in September.

As I finish the last of this newsletter information is coming in of a restructured policy for climbing mountains in Nepal, changes include:-
·         Climbers MUST be accompanied by a guide
·         Restricted helicopter used for personnel above base camp
·         Nepalese mountain workers to receive ‘Summit Certificates’
·         Upper age restriction of 75years and double amputees, visually impaired climbers to be banned
·         A pre-requisite of a 7000m summit is required to enable an Everest permit to be issued

I’m sure this issue will run and run and already one point has risen to the surface.

A difficult situation and decisions to be made
One of the new issues to be considered by the Department of Tourism is whether to implement the policy of requiring every climber to be accompanied by a Nepalese guide. This is a similar situation to the one raised concerning solo trekkers a few years ago. While one of the real attractions of being in the mountains is that there are no real laws only common sense it does create a problem in Nepal where so many climbers and trekkers go missing.
Dhaulagiri 81767 m the worlds' seventh highest summit and Nepal's sixth highest mountain was the last 8000 m peak to be climbed
At the beginning of May Dutchman, Christian Wilson went missing from Dhaulagiri base camp when he failed to reach the lower Italian base camp. He had retreated from his solo attempt to climb the world’s seventh highest mountain, after reaching Camp 2. He gave up as he was (reportedly) a ‘free individual trekker’ on a climbing permit. Despite searches being conducted in the area there are still no answers to the question as to what has happened to Christian. Another trekker,

Romanian Popescu Adina Monica, an experienced orienteer and trekker died in a landslip on the Annapurna Sanctuary trek. Her body was found in the Shivay River, Ghandruk on the route back to Naya Pul, only a few kilometres from the road head and route back to Pokhara.

Who says the Nepali Government is not doing its job?
Since 11th October 2015 the Government has met over 40 times and taken over 800 decisions. Approval was given for 183 foreign trips, 106 appointments, 79 regarding financial support 75 for promotions and transfers and 370 undisclosed approvals. So far very few decisions have been passed that would address some of the other pressing issues in Nepal.

Does Pakistan have a reason?
While our three Nepali ‘Himalayan Queens’ successfully climbed K2 last year there is a growing speculation amongst the Nepalese climbing fraternity that Pakistan wants to limit the role of Sherpas on expeditions to the Karakoram. Lakpa Sherpa has already climbed K2 twice, this season he arrived with all the required permits with the plan to accompany Ruban Payan, an American climber on his K2 expedition. Lakpa was told on arrival by an immigration officer that he had to return to Kathmandu, no reasons were given. When he reclaimed his passport in Kathmandu he found he had been blacklisted. Lakpa is not the only one, many other climbers have been prevented from entering Pakistan this season. An Australian-New Zealander, Chris Burke was refused entry despite having all the required permits, she believed it was because she had a Nepalese climber in her team.

Sometimes ‘Nepali Time’ is faster than time in the rest of the world – especially in politics!
Prime Minister KP Oli resigned on Sunday 24th July, nine months after getting into power and only minutes before parliament was to vote on a ‘no confidence’ motion that he was likely to lose.

Oli was forced to resign after allies of his multi-party coalition deserted the government accusing him of not honouring power sharing deals that had helped install him as prime minister in October last year. There had previously been ‘behind the scenes negotiations’ between the leaders of the various parties but ultimately these had all fallen off the rails.

Nepali politics is never simple to understand especially for foreigners interested in Nepal. Oli had shunned India’s advice and their expressed concerns. This new move will mark India’s return to Nepal’s political landscape. The blockade was part of India’s move to demonstrate discontent with Oli’s leadership after being unable to shape political outcomes in Nepal over the past year. This move will also demonstrate to China the difficulties of micro-managing a diverse, plural democratic landscape in South Asia.

Nepali leaders, almost exclusively from hill castes, were keen to preserve their dominance. They saw the border Madhesi issues as an Indian conspiracy to increase its control. They disregarded both Indian advice and Madhesi protests and pushed the constitution forward in September, 2015.

Beyond these political games, the test will be to see if the next Nepal government brings back inclusive democracy and the country’s relationship with Delhi back on track. For Delhi, another nightmare in Nepal ends. It will now have to build back bilateral ties, while discreetly pushing for political inclusiveness. And as for Beijing, well there is a lesson. Unlike one-party systems, democracy can be messy with many political permutations resulting in change. China has some way to go before it can compete with India’s natural advantages in the Himalayan states.

That’s it!
And with that folks I’ll leave you with a view of our own little ‘jungle’ created by the monsoon weather; remember all the flowers in the last issue, now replaced by lush green foliage and snakes. Yes snakes, Sarita found a large skin in the bushes the other day..but I think he was just passing through..hope so anyway!



Enjoy summer!



July 2016





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