Happy Bisket Jatra yes its New Year and
Nepal leads the world, it’s 2070!
Welcome to the first of what I hope will be regular news updates
from Nepal. It is intended, that through this newsletter, we can keep you up to
speed with what is going on in Nepal and specifically in the trekking sector.
And by ‘regular’, I anticipate that we can get information to you three times a
year. If you would rather not have your ‘inbox’ clogged up with our Newsletter
then please let me know and I will amend our circulation list accordingly.
The weather tendency has, as you would expect for this
time of year been developing monsoon tendencies as the month progresses.
Temperatures have been as high as 32° last week. The cloud cover is medium
and according to Appa Sherpa, our contact in Lukla, the higher altitudes have
been generally clear but after midday the wind has been quiet strong and cold
towards Everest Base Camp. The past three days have seen violent thunder storms
with heavy rain in Kathmandu. For a more detailed weather check - http://www.wunderground.com
Everest Expeditions are now in full swing together with the usual high
numbers of expeditions trekking into Base Camp. There are a reported 29
expeditions all waiting for their ‘push for the summit’, including this year,
a joint Nepal Indian team who have just set out from Kathmandu.
As this year is the 60th
Anniversary of the first ascent it is bound to be a busy season.
The currency exchange rate in Thamel is fluctuating as
usual, a few weeks ago it dropped to as low as 124 NRs to the sterling pound,
however, it has now gained a little more strength and is hovering around the
130/- mark.
Street
widening and traffic disruption is still evident in not only Kathmandu
but along any major roads where there has been an encroachment by builders.
A
law was passed in 1977 stating that there should be no building within 25mts of
the central line, then the insurgency came along and the relevant departments
took their eyes off the ball. In 2012 the government and traffic police decided
to implement the law. This has not only caused major grief to the families who
have lost their homes, but, it is causing daily traffic flow problems. Although
the situation is mainly in the reconstruction phase now there are of course
still plenty of obstacles to negotiate and pedestrians to avoid. I hope the
traffic police will be able to enforce the laws of the road once the work is
completed or we will still be dealing with standing queues, except that instead
of it being only two lanes wide it will be four! Allowing plenty of time to
reach your destinations is still an important consideration, especially where
flights are concerned.
Himalayan
Stove Project is continuing to do a wonderful job converting smoky
kitchens into smokeless kitchens. During the past year we have worked with the
HSP to help change the lives of village people in rural Nepal, especially those
who spend all their time in smoky cooking areas. Before .. and After! Later this year we are hopefully going
to be able to instigate a small project in the Western region of Nepal.
To find out more about the work of the HSP check - www.himalayanstoveproject.org
If you are planning to visit Nepal this year but are so far undecided as to where to go why not think of Dolpo for the summer, the English ‘school holiday’ season. News is trickling through that the pitching of Juphal airstrip will be completed in time for this next season.
If you are planning to visit Nepal this year but are so far undecided as to where to go why not think of Dolpo for the summer, the English ‘school holiday’ season. News is trickling through that the pitching of Juphal airstrip will be completed in time for this next season.
A short
trek into Phu, a secluded valley off the Annapurna Circuit trek would
be a good introduction to trekking in Nepal. The complete trek, Nar Phu
involves crossing a high pass, the Kangla Bhanjyang 5306mts but you don’t need
to attempt this if you don’t want to. Simply trek to Phu, you will have a
wonderful experience and can stay in local lodges all the way although these
are not well developed they provide simple food and accommodation.
Phu village is in the upper valley
and at an altitude of 4746mts; to get there you ascend past the large Pillar of
Phu and up the rather intimidating, but perfectly safe cliff to the entrance
chorten on the upper valley.
Situated
close to the Tibetan border this is a trek requiring special permits. The area
has only recently been opened up to trekkers so it is still relatively
undeveloped. Don’t miss the opportunity to visit Phu with its unique Tibetan
style building before the modern world reaches it!
1. Take
your camera, spare card and spare batteries where ever you go.
2. If
you think there is a chance of a good picture, day or night use the camera.
3. Photography
is not interference in your life; it is part of it.
4. Vary
the angle of your shot, from the hip, from the ground, from up high.
5. Approach
the objects of your shot from as close as possible, however, be respectful and
not intrusive. If the subject says No .. then no photography
6. Don’t
think
7. Be
fast
8. It
is not always necessary to take time to set the shot up.
9. Don’t
worry about any photographic rules, be creative.
10. With
spare batteries and spare cards you don’t have to count the cost of an extra
role of film!
The Everest incident
Much has been written, and even
more spoken, about the recent events that erupted between a group of Sherpa climbers
and foreign climbers on Everest.
Simone
Moro, Ueli Steck and Jon Griffith had permits for both Lhotse and the SW Face of Everest. However,
while moving up from Camp 2 to establish Camp 3 on the Lhotse/Everest route the
foreign team crossed the ropes being fixed by the Sherpa team, there was a
heated exchange of words after which the Sherpas descended while the Moro team
continued and established Camp 3. Upon descending tempers were raised, pushing
and shoving took place and that then unfortunately ended as reported in so many
of the world’s media sites.This incident is very regrettable
but in a way not surprising, it was always going to happen one day. The only
surprise was that it occurred on Everest.Those of you of a certain age
will remember the scuffles in the Bar Nat in Chamonix, there underlying
tensions were similar.However, things are now changing
in Nepal.
Listen to the word on the streets; people are
now standing up for themselves, they are no longer down trodden and they have
an opinion on everything, including on how to climb their mountains and they
are not frightened to express themselves - Empowerment!?
On Everest it is the sherpas fixing
the routes, stocking camps and making many journeys through the danger zones
that are taking the most risk, but in many cases getting a lesser percentage of
the commercial profits despite being well paid for their efforts, service and
skills. There is bound to be a certain frustration or even resentment with this
situation. Many Nepali climbers (not just the Sherpa) have
now developed a sophisticated level of technical climbing ability and many are
experienced, do a good professional job and climb for climbing sake, not just
because they get paid for it. They should be regarded as equals, not simply
work-horses. There is a great sense of pride
in climbing Everest and a successful summit will enhance a climber’s bio-data
with increased earning potential. Any
‘challenge’ to the climbing sherpa’s role in the situation as witnessed on
Everest where it could be perceived that there was a loss of face will produce
a collective and united response. A
combination of young Nepali blood fueled with altitude based oxygen deficiency
and maybe foreign verbal abuse is a potent mixture that doesn’t always produce
an acceptable result. The important issue in all of
this is that the two sides have resolved their differences.
Obituary
Dick enjoyed Nepal right up to
the end; the photo below was taken by him on his last visit here in 2012. Our
thoughts are with his family and friends, he will be sadly missed.
Four confirmed deaths on Everest this first 2013 season
Mingma Sherpa, 47, from Lukla,
working as Icefall Doctor slipped into crevasse in Western Cwm.
DaRita Sherpa, 37, from Phortse
working for IMG died from sudden cardiac or cerebral event at Camp 3.
Sergey Ponomarev climbing with
the Seven Summits Club died at Advanced Base Camp on the north side presumably
of a heart attack.
Lobsang Sherpa, 22, from
Kharikhola working for Seven Summits Treks fell down Lhotse Face.
Let’s hope the rest of the season
passes safely.
Spring is turning to summer!
It has conical, green pseudo-bulbs enveloped by several leaf bearing
sheaths and blooms in the spring. After blooming the dead flowers, can be cut
off and placed on sand in a long, plastic plant tray, partially covered and put
in a deep shaded, humid, well watered area. In two to three months plantlets
will begin to grow from the old floral bracts. After six months they can be
transplanted into a pot.
And finally - I hope you have enjoyed reading our first
Newsletter, however, if you don’t want to receive these in the future then
please let me know and I will amend our mailing list.
For more trekking ideas please
visit our website and the new 2013 Trekking Brochure, also of interest is our
Trekkers Handbook that will give you all sorts of ideas and useful hints about
life on trek.
Soon to be added to the site is
‘Trekking in Nepal, A Trekkers’ Introduction to the Country, its People,
Culture and Political Intrigue’.
Wishing you all the best for this
trekking season no matter what or where your plans will take you – just keep on
trekking.
Ian and Saita Lama Wall
Best
wishes
Kathmandu May 2013
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