Well, a big milestone for us, the
Newsletter is a year old! The image used in this edition’ banner headline will
be familiar to many of you, Langtang Ri and Langtang Lirung above a cloud
filled Langtang Valley taken on the descent to Thurlo Shabru from Sing Gompa.
Everest - A
Consideration for the Future
As a result of the altercations that took place on Everest during
the spring season of 2013 and in an effort to manage some of the less desirable
‘record breakers’ and to monitor legitimate ascents of Everest the Ministry of
Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation has deployed security officials in a Tourism
Office at Everest Base Camp operating from April 2014. The staff are checking
on permits, liaison officers and expect briefings from expedition leaders if
expedition members have the intention of setting some sort of record, they will
also be able to help climbers in distress, clean the mountain and
enforce climbing rules.
Also from April 2014 the Government authorities have instigated an
intensive orientation program at EBC that those expedition personal wishing to
summit Everest, both foreigners and Nepalese, will have to attend. It was also
announced in the Himalayan Times on Sunday 2nd March 2014 that the Everest Peak
Permit fees will be reduced from 25,000 US $ to 11,000 US $ per climber in
January 2015, for Nepali climbers the Permit Fee will remain unchanged at
60,000 US $. Hard luck guys if you paid 25000 US $ for this season!
In 2013 it was recorded that Everest had 539 ascents from the
Nepal side whilst from Tibet side it received 119 ascents, a total of 658
ascents spread over a weather window of 14 days but with the majority of
ascents being made over 5 days and within a 6 hour time window per day. Simple
maths would suggest that over 110 people were on the summit more or less at the
same time, or at least within striking distance of the summit. Surely by
reducing the peak permit this will increase the congestion at those familiar
bottle-necks and will only reduce the true exhilarating mountaineering
experience by those making the summit?
In a bid to increase Nepal's revenue the Cabinet is seeking
permission to open an additional 104 peaks for climbing. Nepal's mountaineering
revenue covers more than 4% of the GDP, (nearly 3 million US $ per year from
Everest alone), the addition of the new peaks will increase the number of peaks
open to mountaineering activities to 414 summits.
However, on the 5th April it was announced that 56
expedition permits had been issued for this spring seasons, including 24
permits for Everest. Last year 112 permits in total were issued. A 50%
reduction indicates, based on the previously mentioned figures above, a
reduction of 50% of the mountaineering contribution to the GDP pot. Whether
this reduction in expeditions is the result of an increase in insurance
premiums, the Nepalese domestic flight safety record or some of the other
causes that are raising concern for visiting Nepal is unknown, but surely
addressing these issues will do more to increase visitor numbers than opening
up additional peaks or reducing Everest fees.
This edition’s ‘Column of Interest’
This image puts fear into many an
enemy; a Gurkha soldier charging towards them with an automatic weapon in one
hand and a Khurkuri in the other.
In WW1 200,000 Gurkhas served
in 33 battalions in the British army, they had 20,000 causalities, 2,000 won
gallantry awards and 13 VC’s were awarded to native Nepalese Gurkhas.
In WW2 250,000 Gurkhas served in
42 Infantry battalions, 7,544 were killed, 1,441 were either posted dead or
missing, 23,655 were wounded and 2,734 were awarded bravery medals.
Gurkhas have seen action in
Burma, Borneo, Malaysia, North Africa, Afghanistan, Baluchistan, Mediterranean
and Pacific countries, Palestine, Jerusalem, Hong Kong, Singapore, Persia,
Iraq, India, Tunis and the Falklands. Many now form part of the UN peace keeping
force around the world and they always carry their Khurkuri into service with
them.
The Khurkuri functions as both an
axe and a knife, designed for both chopping and stabbing in war situations. The
blade width varies between 3 – 10cms and is, in section wedge shaped. With the
balance across the fulcrum the khurkuri rests in a vertical position. The notch
just in front of the handle is not for opening bottles as many people think, it
is the ‘aum’, a religious Hindu symbol that is associated with Lord Shiva, the
God of Destruction. The practical use for this is to cause the blood to drip
off the knife before it reaches the handle which would make it slippery!
The scabbard also houses two
smaller knives that have a different use, the sharper of the two, the ‘karda’
is a general purpose small knife, the blunt one, the ‘chakmak’ is used to start
fires, a flint stone.
The scabbard or ‘dap’ is made
from a two part wooden frame covered in buffalo hide. The older models
Today, in Gurung, Magar, Rai,
Limbu and Tamang households, a khurkuri will be found as a general purpose knife.
When pulling a khurhuri from its
scabbard never grip the scabbard with the fingers totally enclosing the sheath,
a sharp khurhuri has been known to slip between the two wooden halves of the
scabbard slicing off fingers.
Declining water levels and raising concerns in the Kathmandu Valley
Kathmandu is
increasingly facing huge problems with its fresh water supplies dwindling as a
result of not only the drop in the valley’s water table but also from the rapid
development of roads and housing which disrupts ancient man-made and natural
water courses. Water tankers are on the increase but in many districts it is
impossible for them to squeeze between the tightly packed houses.
The famous book, ‘Tigers for
Breakfast’ written by Michel Peissel, gives the reader an excellent insight
into the life and times of Boris Lasnetvich, the infamous and legendary Russian
ballet dancer who is credited with introducing Kathmandu and Nepal to the greater
traveling public of the early 1960s. Boris was a great entrepreneur and the
once owner of the legendary “Royal Hotel”, he was also an entertainer for the
royalties and hosted many state functions including King Mahendra’s Coronation and
Queen Elizabeth II during her visit to Nepal in 1961.
Many of the reported
conversations featured in the book took place in the ornate 1905 Restaurant,
situated next to the old ‘Royal Hotel’ and with its roots going back to the
Rana times. Nearly all Rana Palaces at that time had water features, the water
levels of which were naturally maintained by either the flow of water from the
surrounding hills or from the seeping water table.
In a bid to maintain water supplies to these congested districts
of the valley a task force was established in September 2010, to research and
collect data on the present state and number of water spouts still in existence
in the Kathmandu Valley. It is believed that many spouts have either been
‘captured’, have been destroyed or had their supply destroyed by local
development. The stone water spouts are fast disappearing from Kathmandu
Valley.
There were initially 389 recorded stone spouts in the Kathmandu
Valley. From those it is known that 45 spouts have already disappeared with
further water spouts being under threat. On the other hand there is evidence
that 43 others have been renovated and connected back into fresh water supplies,
however, among all the stone spouts, only 186 are functioning as natural water
sources heightening concern for those ‘disconnected’ areas
These water spouts not only provided drinking water but are used
as communal washing and bathing facilities.
Nepali
Women on top
Despite Nepal being home to
Everest and eight of the highest mountains in the world, Nepali women have a
very low participation rate in mountaineering in Nepal. Everest has had 3,842
ascents as recorded in the Ministry of Tourism, but, out of those only 21 were
made by Nepalese woman. But that is changing!
The first Nepalese woman to reach the summit
of Everest on the 22nd April 1993 was Pasang Lhamu Sherpa. Pasang
Lhamu was born into a mountaineering family and had already summated Cho Oyu as
several other mountains in Nepal. Bad weather closed in around the summit and sadly
Pasang Lhamu died on the South Summit during her descent.
For achieving what no other
Nepalese woman had achieved before her, Pasang Lhamu was posthumously honored
by Nepal. She was the very first woman to be decorated with the "Nepal
Tara (Star)" by His Majesty the King and the National Youth Foundation
conferred the 1993-94 ‘Youth Excellence Award’ on her. Similarly, in order to
commemorate her feat, a life-size statue of her was erected at Bouddha, a
postage stamp was issued in her name and Jasamba Himal (7,315 m) in the
Mahalangur Range was renamed Pasang Lhamu Peak; the Ministry of Agriculture
named a special strain of wheat as Pasang Lhamu wheat; the Pasang Lhamu
Memorial Hall was established in Jhapa district in east Nepal and the Kathmandu
– Trishuli - Dunche road was named the Pasang Lhamu Highway.
On the 10th May 1993
Dicky Dolma, a member of the Indo-Nepali Everest Expedition became the youngest
woman to summit Everest aged 19 years. Initially Dicky Dolma was not interested
in climbing but living in Palchan near the resort of Manali she developed her
skiing skills and was in fact the national women’s ski champion for over a
decade.
Today Dicky Dolma is an instructor
of skiing and mountaineering at the Manali Institute. Dolma's career as a sportswoman
has enabled her to travel far from her mountain home. As a champion skier, she
went to New Zealand for an event in 1997 and to the Asian Winter Games in Korea
in 1999. In India, she first won the Women's Slalom gold in the 1989 All-India
Open Auli Ski Festival and has reigned supreme in the Giant Slalom, in the
National Winter Games of 1991, 1996, 1998 and 2002. She was also the coach of
the Indian team at the Junior Asian Games in Japan in 1995.
In 2000 Pemba Doma Sherpa became the first
Nepali woman to climb Everest from the North side and then in 2002 she summated
from the Nepal, South side.
Growing up in Namche Bazaar, Pemba
was familiar with the international expeditions that would regularly pass
through the village and she would often engage in conversation with the
expedition members. She would get irritated when people would ask her what is
was like being a Sherpa and always having to carry the loads for foreign
expeditions; it was then that she decided to make a statement on behalf of both
Nepali women and in particular Sherpanis. When I first moved to Nepal I stayed
with Pemba, her husband Raj and daughter Lhami. Tragically Pemba Doma died on
Lhotse in 2007.
In 2000 Pemba and Raj established
the ‘Save the Himalayan Kingdom’ charity with the main objective of helping the
children of Nepal who come from very poor families, no matter what caste, to go
to school. Pemba was awarded the Prasiddha Prabal Gorkha Dakshin Bahu medal by
the late King Birendra for her contribution to climbing, her body was taken to
Tengbouche Monastery where it was blessed by the high lama, a ritual reserved
for only the most revered dignitaries.
In 2008 a team of Nepali women
became the most successful women’s expedition ever to summit Everest. They are also the first Nepali women from
Brahmin, Gurung, Danwar and Chettri communities to have reached the top of the
world.
Now Maya Gurung, Pujan Acharya,
Pemna Diki Sherpa Nimdoma Sherpa, Chunu Shrestha, Aha Kumari Singh and Shailee
Basnet, have their eyes set on the 7 Summits. With Everest already under their
‘harnesses’ the team have successfully summated the Mt Kosciuszko and Mt Elbrus
respectively in 2010. They reached the rooftop of Africa, Mt Kilimanjaro
on March 2013, together with four African women highlighting the significance
of girl education. In March this year they returned from a successful
expedition to Aconcagua which they summated on the 23rd Feb, 2014, next Denali.
Finally, Mt Vinson Massif in
Antarctica in the coming winter. With ‘Together We Reach Higher’ as a motto they
focus on education, empowerment and environment as the tools to attaining
greater heights. During their tours the girls visit schools, engage in outdoor
exchange with local women and environmental initiatives as well as tourism
promotion. To learn more visit – www.sevensummitswomen.org
In a previous edition of our Newsletter we mentioned Chhurim
Sherpa who climbed Everest twice in a week in 2013, because no other female
climber had achieved that. Before Everest Chhurim had only two
peaks to her name, Mera Peak (6,476m) and Island Peak (6,189m), she's since
gone on to summit Ama Dablam (6,812m) and Kun peak (7,135m) in India. However, she's
not finished with Everest as she wants ascend via the northern side, as well as
to ascend Kanchenjunga, the mountain she could see daily from her home in Taplejung.
And then; the highest peak on every continent. Chhurim has recently been
elected to the Executive Board of the NMA.
Now, in 2014 there are three
Nepali women about to attempt K2. The climbers are no strangers to altitude
with several ascents of 8000m peaks as well as lower more technical ascents to
their names. The girls will head out of Kathmandu on the 15th June
2014 returning on the 15th September.
The main focus for the all female
team is that of being the first Nepali female mountaineers to summit this
Himalayan giant! A strong team fiercely dedicated to fighting climate change
and enhancing sustainable development in the Himalaya. They are committed to
serving the Himalayan communities that introduced them to the global world and
helped them understand the causes for which they are climbing.
Dawa is an Ultra Marathon, high
altitude long distance runner as well as being a mountaineer. In 2010 she finished
2nd in the female 350km Everest Sky race.
Similarly, she also completed in the 350km Annapurna Mandala Trail. She is the
first female Everest summiteers from Beding, Rolwaling District. She has
achieved positions in the top five placing in the national climbing
competitions and is the first Nepali female to complete the Climbing Rescue Ranger
course at Mt. Rainier (USA). She is an athlete sponsored by Sherpa Adventure
Gear and is now taking an Aspirant Guide Course organized by Nepal National
Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA).
Ms. Maya Sherpa started her
climbing career as a National Weight Lifter reached the finals several times.
After the completion of basic and advanced climbing training courses organized
by Nepalese Mountaineering Association (NMA), she started working as climbing
guide. She then got involved in International Himalayan expeditions, Everest
North and South, Lhotse, Cho Oyu,
Shishapangma, Baruntse, Pumori, Khan Tengri, Ama Dablam as well as several trekking peaks. She has summited Everest twice in 2006 and 2007.
Shishapangma, Baruntse, Pumori, Khan Tengri, Ama Dablam as well as several trekking peaks. She has summited Everest twice in 2006 and 2007.
2003 Gold Medal in Nepal National Weight Lifting Games and First Nepali woman to summit Ama Dablam 6812m. In 2004 she was the first Nepali woman on Pumori 7145m and the first Nepali woman on Cho Oyu 8201m. In 2006 she summated Everest by the South Col route and the in 2007 from the North side. In 2008 she made the first Nepali ascent Khan Tengri 7010m (Kirgizstan) and in 2009 the first Nepali woman to summit Baruntse 7125m
Pasang started climbing in 2001.
After completing the NMA mountaineering training in Nepal, she went to Chamonix
and gained the mountaineering diploma from ENSA. She has climbed Everest from
the Tibet side and also Yala Peak, Nangpai Gusung, Ama Dablam, and Putta
Hiunculi. She is also the first women to climb the Nangpai Gosum, 7321 m and is
the first Nepali female mountaineering instructor for the NMA. Today, in
addition to working as a female mountaineering instructor in Nepal, she is
guiding and teaching in Nepal and USA. She is also sponsored by Sherpa
Adventure Gear. We wish them the very best of
luck in their new challenge.
Roads
The roads saga continues, albeit
at a snails’ pace. The main airport to Thamel road is just about finished but
the out-lying districts are still under demolition and construction. Now work
has begun on the ring road.
But now, for something different!
Many of you will recognize and no doubt remember the top image, the chorten on
the way to Millerapa from Timbu. Well this has all changed, there is now a
reasonable road and a frequent bus service between Millerapa and Kathmandu, in
fact I drove from my house to Millerapa in 3.5 hours last week.
Thankfully any damage the chorten
sustained during road construction has been made good.
Exchange rate
The NRs is holding well against
the pound as it is against the dollar. Over the last few weeks it has topped
160/- NRs to the pound but at the moment it is 156.22NRs with the dollar being
worth 94.13NRs
Winter weather
Winter was relatively kind to us;
we had heavy snow in the hills at the beginning of March which closed all the
high passes. Even upper Gorkha had a fair dump with many groups being turned
back at Larkya La, reportedly over a meter of snow at Samagoan. Unfortunately this bad spell created more
havoc with domestic flights. The first sound of this year’s cuckoo arrived on
the 28th March and the higher Rhododendrons are just coming into
bloom.
At the moment we have typically
spring type weather, blustery shower and squally storms preceded by strong
winds, but we need the rain.
So it is official - Spring is
here.
Trekking ideas
The Annapurna Circuit has come in
for a fair amount of road development and for a time the beauty of the circuit
was potentially lost. However, there has been a lot of trekking route
development in the area over the last couple of years resulting in treks now visiting
some many previously unexploited parts on the Annapurna range. I hope to be
able to go for a look round this season and then provide a brief overview in
the next Newsletter. These new treks will be a feature in our brochure for 2015
and of course on the website.
Also on our website
We’ve now up-loaded all of our
previous newsletters, a few client comments and stories and some useful Trek Guide’ – a guide to trekking, daily
routines, health issues and other important ‘on trek’ information is
downloadable as is ‘Trekking in Nepal’ – a trekkers’ introduction to the
country, its people, culture and political intrigue.
Well that’s about it for now so
wishing you all a Happy Easter and, until the next edition of the Newsletter in
August, enjoy Spring.
Not exactly the Easter Bunny, but
this ‘lille fella’ is the next best thing!
Best
Ian
nd Sarita
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