Off the Wall Newsletter No 5 August 2014
We present the August edition of our
Newsletter with a picture of sun rise on the Makalu Himal.
This spring season has been tragically
marred by the deaths of sixteen Sherpa guides on Everest and the aftermath that
instantaneously closed the mountain. There is a special section dedicated to
this event later in our newsletter.
The weather this past four months has
been particularly changeable and uncharacteristic with rain and high mountain
storms that deposited large amounts of snow on the higher peaks causing several
expeditions to fail on their objectives. Sadly three sherpas, who were part of
an India expedition, were also killed in an avalanche on Kanchenjunga.
However, by the end of July the
monsoon has not truly set in and the farmers are worried for their rice crops.
Breaking
News – massive
landslide kills many with hundreds of people still being unaccounted for – see
below in this newsletter.
Solo Trekking
There are an increasing number of
people that go trekking independently and solo. There are many reasons for
this, it may be due to financial reasons, sometimes trekkers feel they are
experienced and don’t need a guide or simply because they enjoy the
independence, solitude and adventure that a solo trek can provide. There is
nothing wrong with that, I often go on a trek and enjoy my own company.
However, trekkers must keep safe, they should be experienced not only in
trekking but also in cultural issues. They need to know how to treat people and
what to be wary of. Statistics are showing that an increasing number of solo
trekkers are disappearing with little trace and all too often from well marked
and popular routes. This trekkers is heading towards Gokyo.
There are a few simple rules that
trekkers could follow to keep themselves safe. Firstly, do a good ‘risk
assessment’. Think about what could go wrong, route finding problems, weather
problems, darkness or temperature related issues, problems with locals or other
trekkers. There are all sorts of other issues that could prevent the day going
well. Work through these problems and try to envisage how you would solve them,
then take appropriate precautions not risks.
Always leave your planned route
itinerary with someone, maybe the hotel you were staying at. Many lodges now
provide a ‘Trekkers Log’ where solo trekkers can sign in outlining their following
day’s journey. I’m not suggesting that everyone should take a guide and porters
but if you don’t you are of course, doing those people out of their wages. Many
people say that trekkers should carry their own loads and not depend on the ‘locals’
to carry it for them. But for the locals, this is their job and how they earn a
living, money that keeps their families financed for the next few days, weeks
or months. The only way you can abuse a porter or guide is by not providing
fair wages, food, accommodation and equipment. Make sure your staff have
insurance, in Nepal porter clothing can be hired from KEEP in Kathmandu or
Porters Progress in Lukla. Remember your staff are your responsibility and they
can also greatly add to the enjoyment and experience of a trek, introducing you
to places, people and cultures you might otherwise by-pass. Apart from that do
you really enjoy sweating under a heavy load?
Trekking
Agents Association of Nepal
Trekking Agencies' Association of
Nepal (TAAN) was formed and registered in 1979 by a handful of trekking agents
who realized that it was time to assemble and create an umbrella organization
under which they could work together to meet their common goals and also to assist
the government by providing suggestions to develop the trekking business into a
sustainable revenue generating industry.
In more recent times TAAN has
introduced TIMS, Tourist Information Management System, with the aim of
monitoring trekker movements and providing additional safety for tourists.
Whether this is working or not is another issue, however, it is now law that
trekkers should register and obtain a TIMS permit. The regulations for this
have just been updated. See the illustrations.
TAAN, has at present, got seven people
listed as missing in Nepal, a Slovak in the Khumbu, an Australian in
Siklas/Dudh Pokhari region, a Dutch national and an American in the Annapurna
region, a British national in the Kanchenjunga region and a German and American
in Langtang. Four other trekkers were also reported missing but have since been
accounted for. All these people had registered with the TIMS system but had
deviated from their intended route without informing the lodges that they
stayed at or their families back home. Extensive searches along the planned
routes have been carried out but sadly no trace of the above can be found.
The Roads
The road improvement scheme is
continuing, and I have to say it has made a real difference not only in getting
from place to place in a better flow of traffic but with the redevelopment of
renovated road side businesses people are beginning to take a pride in their shop
window appearance. A lot of improvements can be seen and there is also a general
feeling that the community is a little more secure and is prepared to invest in
their businesses and property.
The
Bagmati
Taking a slightly different slant on
development issues I’d like to turn my attention to the Bagmati River with its
source in Shivapuri Hills, north of Kathmandu.
For many people visiting Nepal the
first glimpse of the Bagmati River will be from the micro-bus as they travel across the bridge on the way from the airport into
Thamel, near Pashaputinath Temple. Looking at the state of the river few would
believe that it is a sacred river.
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Hindu cremation on the banks of the
Bagmati at Pashaputinath Temple
Image© Ian Wall |
Pashaputinath Temple, in one form or
another, has been in existence on this site since 400 A.D. with its
richly-ornamented pagoda houses and the sacred linga or holy symbol of Lord
Shiva. Since those times the Bagmati
River, which runs next to Pashaputinath Temple, has been regarded as
having highly sacred properties. This is because it eventually flows into the Ganges
River in India, ultimately reaching the holy city of Varanasi.
In the Hindu culture the death of a
person must be followed by cremation within 24 hours. The Bagmati with its holy powers is believed
to purify the soul which is why many people bathe in it, and the ashes of the
dead are, after cremation, washed into it.
Way up in the hills today and even
down in the valley only a few years ago, the river was clean and people of
today can remember taking drinking water and bathing in it. However, in 2014,
the Bagmati is a different story.
Sadly there has been a huge increase
in indiscriminate building along the river banks, the dumping of rubbish into
the water, and a relentless pouring out of raw sewage into the water that has all
resulted in the river becoming extremely polluted. There are efforts being made
to address the pollution issues but to really make a serious impression on the
state of the waters of the Bagmati there needs to be considerable financial
investment in replacing and renewing the sewer system and in water treatment
plants.
Insurance
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A tragic rescue of a solo trekker from
Kanchenjunga
South Base Camp Image © Ian Wall
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A recent review of the safety issues
surrounding the Nepali domestic carriers (2013) resulted in a safety warning
being issued by the EU banning Nepali planes from entering EU airspace and
warning visitors to Nepal of the issues surrounding flying in Nepal. This had a
knock on effect for trekker and mountaineering insurance for people wishing to
undertake these activities.
I understand that some insurance
companies are charging premiums of approximately a £100 a week, but, then on
top of that there is a surcharge of £500 levied for helicopter rescues and £250
for helicopter evacuations making the insurance issue a big financial
consideration on top of the cost of a holiday in Nepal.
One solution might be to consider taking out a policy with Global
Rescue (literally just for helicopter rescue from the mountain) and then a
second ‘trekking’ insurance that would kick in once below the approved
insurance stimulated height, of around 5500m, had been reached.
As a result of recent discussions I
have found out that the Austrian Alpine Club offer an extremely good service
including cover for ‘non-medical’ evacuations. Also that if you hold the top
level of Master Card and if you purchase your holiday using that card then you
are automatically covered for mountaineering activities and air-rescue up to
6500m, an issue worth looking into. Finally I have also had it reported to me
that the on-line company, Insure and Go,
provide a year’s cover for approximately £150 for two with helicopter rescue up
to 20,000 feet. It is worth checking these options out for your future
insurance needs.
Helicopter Rescue insurance is
extremely important when trekking or climbing in the high Himalaya. However,
helicopters also pose a considerable threat and the following should be carefully
noted.
Everest 2014
Everest Base Camp, even Google wanted
a ‘Street View’. Life was continuing as it would in any middle class
mountaineering based residential district, there were yoga classes,
mountaineering training sessions and cocktail hours for those that wanted to
indulge, all provided by agents whose clients, having paid large fees, waited
to conquer nature, their fears and death.
A Hollywood film crew was there to film scenes for yet another action
film about the 1996 events on Everest as chronicled by Jon Krakauer
in ‘Into Thin Air’ and an American stuntman, Joby Ogwyn, was getting ready to
jump from the summit in a wing-suit, another ‘record attempt’ that the Discovery
Channel planned to broadcast live.
There were nearly 340 climbers with
permits to climb Everest and each paying between US$35,000 and US$100,000 in an
attempt to summit within a three-week window in May. Base Camp City then
exploded in population when all the Nepali guides and high altitude staff were
included in the numbers. Susmita Maskey, a 34-year-old Nepali woman who has
climbed Everest and some of the world's other highest mountains describes the
Everest scene as "a circus."
The
nature of climbing Everest has changed over the past six decades. In the
beginning early mountaineers shared the risks, challenges, and joys of the mountaineer
adventure with their Nepali colleagues. Mount Everest is now more accessible
than ever before and as long as climbers are able to afford an expedition then
they will continue to want to climb the highest mountain on the planet. The
Mount Everest Experience has been so commercialised, that it now exposes an
eroding away of those values embodied in the first successful ascents of
Everest. With the increase in accessibility, many people with little
mountaineering experience attempt to summit Everest each year, but their
inexperience and higher numbers increase the risk involved for their Sherpa
guides.
At 6.30am on the 18th April
2014 all this changed.
In
Base Camp several early risers witnessed the plume of snow and the loud noise
that indicated an avalanche but the first clue that a tragedy was unfolding was
the buzz of helicopters flying toward the Khumbu Icefall followed quickly by
reports from descending climbers that there had been multiple fatalities in an
avalanche, an avalanche started by a house sized lump of ice calving off a
glacier on the west face of Everest. It hit the Ice Fall sending a cloud
of snow, ice and seracs down smothering over 50 sherpa guides and high altitude
Nepali support staff who were caught in its path.
Nepali guides, mountain staff and
foreign mountaineers, rushed up to give assistance, many people were rescued
alive but sadly sixteen Nepalese Sherpa guides were killed with three bodies
still being unaccounted for, leaving 47 children fatherless. Dave Hahn, a guide
for Rainier Mountaineering reported "We ended up chopping victims out of
the ice, it was a horrible progression of body after body." Guy Cotter of
Adventure Consultants concluded that when it is a large block of ice collapsing
in the Ice Fall, it's not an avalanche or crevasse rescue but it's basically a
mining project to get people out.
A Chinese climber, Jing Wang had a
project to complete all Seven Summits within six months and felt that she had
committed so much that she was determined to climb Everest to set this world
record. In this bid she hired a helicopter to fly into Camp 2 and then made a
successful summit attempt. The Himalayan Times, 2 July 2014, reported that the
Government has subsequently acknowledged Wang’s ascent and formally presented
her with a certification of authority and proof of her achievement, the
ceremony was attended by all the major personalities in the relevant government
departments. However, the helicopter pilot concerned was reprimanded for ‘breaching
safety regulations’ and was removed from flying duties. Maurizio Folini, a very
experienced pilot who performed the highest rescue on Everest at 7800m in 2012
returned to Italy immediately the Notice was served on Fishtail Air.
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The Everest
Ice Fall, the route through the Ice Fall is marked in red,
the source of the
avalanche in black. Image ©Ian Wall
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A fund has been established to take
financial responsibility for the children of the fathers killed, not only in this
year’s tragedy but also in other incidents. This fund is being administered by
the NMA on behalf of the Government. Children who are between the ages of 1 – 5
years will receive 5,000/- per month and will continue to live with their
mothers, 6 – 9 year olds will receive 7,000/- per month but will live in a
school hostel in Kathmandu and children 10 – 15 years will receive 10,000/- per
month and live in Kathmandu school hostels. It is planned to extend this ‘fund’
to cover education up to Bachelor level. At present this fund supports 29
children.
Kathmandu
– Another time another place
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Taleju Temple, Durbar Square
image ©Ian Wall |
Thousands of visitors travel to Nepal every year many for trekking
and other adventurous activities, however, these days with the constraints of
modern life and time commitments many simply arrive, trek and then return home.
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The Bhimen’s Tower was originally used
to call,
by a bugle from the top most windows, military and government officials together in caseof an emergency. The Tower, built in 1832 or Dharahara
as it is known as, is now open to the public and
provides splendid panoramic views of the city from the top balcony
Image © Ian Wall
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Time spent studying maps and flight options emphasise the fact
that Nepal is a long way from the UK despite the saying that the world is
shrinking. From London Kathmandu is actually only 7500kms or 4500miles but in
fact Kathmandu is further away than that, separated by a huge gulf of time as
well as the physical divide of the Himalaya. There is a much used expression
‘Nepali time’, this not only refers to the way schedules are kept here, but,
also to the pace of life, which lacks the frenetic, linear way of life
experienced by most foreign visitors to Nepal. Even the most ardent traveler
can’t fail to experience even minor cultural shock on a visit to Nepal, the
difference in climate, religions, a lack of development and more recently the
rate of change, the languages and ethnicity, the food not to mention the
sights, sounds and smells of a new destination.
The Kathmandu Valley is both
overwhelming and enchanting embracing ancient temples, palaces and traditional
homes as well as presenting a developing social balance that meets the needs of
two great religions, Hinduism and Buddhism as well as that of Man, ancient and
modern.
Today Kathmandu has eight World
Heritage sites situated within the confines of the Valley rim. Despite the
general lack of written historical facts life within sight of the mighty
Himalaya has been present for many thousands of years. In 1960 scientists
discovered a tooth of a Ramepithicus that resided in northern Nepal more than a
million years ago. In geological terms the Kathmandu Valley was more recently a
great lake.
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Jung Bahadur built this in 1851 to
replace the previous pond that
was destroyed by the earthquake in 1934.
The
‘Queens Pond’ is one of Pratap Malla’s gifts to his beloved
wife.
However,
these tanks perform a more basic need, they were an
important mechanism in
replenishing of ground water
that fed the waterspouts of the city Image ©Ian Wall
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Eventually the hills to the south of
the city were breached either by nature or by ‘divine’ intervention exposing
the flat and fertile valley floor. It must have provided an ideal environment
for early man, evidence of whom occasionally surface along what was the ancient
shore line in the form of stone tools dating back to over 35,000 years. However,
it took many thousands of years before people settled permanently in the ‘Valley’,
there is no evidence of man predating 1,000 BCE.
The oldest known artifacts in the
valley, are in historical terms, fairly modern dating back to only a few
hundred years BCE, the oldest known inscription is dated 185CE while the oldest
dated building is only 1,000 years old, which is remarkable considering the
seismic nature of this part of the world. However,
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Just a little over two centuries ago
the Kathmandu Valley was inhabited by people from three different Malla
Kingdoms, Kathmandu, Bhaktapur and Patan. Each had its own similar architecture,
temples and monuments.
Next time you come to Nepal allow time
to explore the temples, bihi and behar, the water spouts and other old and
fascinating sites of Kathmandu. All the sites mention here are within an easy
40 minutes walk from Thamel with the exception of Bhaktapur, but that is only
45 minutes away by car along the new road.
Tragic
Breaking News
Congratulations
The 7 Summits Team have just completed
their ascent of Denali and are now focused on their final summit, Mt Vinson in
Antarctica.
The K2 Nepal Women’s Expedition
successfully summated K2 on the 26th July at 3.35pm, and they are
due back in Kathmandu on the 7th August.
The Chadar
Frozen River Trek, Zanskar, Ladakh
This famous trek lies deep in the
Zanskar Valley, Ladakh. In winter snowfall closes many of the mountain passes
and villages become completely inaccessible between November and March. One of
the oldest routes to gain access to this region in winter is along the frozen
Zanskar River and this trek retraces this ancient route.
Sarita
and I intend to attempt this seven to eight day trek in February 2015 before
it’s too late. With the landscape acquiring a winter grandeur under usually
clear blue skies but, where temperatures sometimes drop to –30° to - 35°C it’ll
be a challenge but I’ve always wanted
to do this since I first visited the area nearly 15 years ago. If you are
interested in joining us on this trip then please drop me an email ian@offthewalltrekking.com
So until
the next edition – enjoy the outdoors!
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