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| Dedicated with deep affection to Tenzing and Pema, Moonlight Lodge, Langtang, 25th April 2015 |
Namaste!
As you will all know Nepal was hit by a devastating earthquake on the 25th April 2015. Many regions along the Gorkha to Namche fault line were damaged, some critically others you would hardly notice. However, amongst the friends now sadly departed are Tenzing and Pema from the Moonlight Lodge in Langtang.
Unfortunately to study the world's media you would think that Nepal is a totally destroyed nation. This is not so, the Nepalese people are very resilient and once they had come to terms with the situation they began to pick themselves up and to get back on there feet.
It is almost impossible to pay tribute to all those people from these areas who died, but, one way we can all respect what they provided for the trekkers and to help the survivors in their villages is to keep returning to Nepal to help them rebuild their lives and a sustainable future. It will take time for some areas to re-open but for the great majority of the trekking regions the people are more than ready and able to welcome trekkers back.
All but one of the heritage sites in Kathmandu are open and hotels and lodges have been checked by engineers. Travel infrastructure is in place, there are no disease issues, petrol is available as are 'trek food treats' and the street scene in Thamel is much the same as it ever was. The one thing you will not have seen before are the artisans working hard to recreate the world heritage sites, the temples and Durbar Squares. Take advice from the trek operators and come back with the confidence of having, yet again, a great experience in Nepal.
'Off the Wall trekking' was established by us in 2012.
However, as a qualified mountain leader I have over 40 years of mountaineering
experience and have worked and led treks in many different areas of the
European Alps, Norway, Africa, Tibet, Nepal and Ladakh as well as in the UK. I
have lived in Nepal since 2006 and was for 6 years the in-Country Representative for a
UK charity working in Nepal.
Sarita, my wife, is a qualified Nepali
paramedic who has accompanied me on many treks in Nepal in a medical support
capacity. She also has all the necessary connections to enable your visit to
Nepal to run without a hitch, she also leads treks.
While we and our 'Off the Wall trekking' team endeavour to follow the program
and itinerary as described to you we cannot, we’re afraid, be held responsible
for any changes that might occur due to illness, weather, a change of flight
schedule or political or natural disturbances. In the event of any of these unforeseen
situations our experienced staff will do everything within their power to
attend to your needs and minimise any inconvenience the above might cause.
Your hotel
It is
important that once you are in your hotel you make yourself aware of all the
safety issues, the fire exits and collection points around the hotel. It is
advisable to only drink bottled water; and eat in good continental
restaurants in Thamel, these are safe but avoid small ‘local’ Nepali restaurants to
ensure you avoid stomach problems. To help keep yourself healthy we advise you
to use the ‘gel’ hand cleanser regularly but especially before you eat
anything. You will have a briefing in the hotel once you have settled into your room.
Changing Money
Change money
at a reputable money exchanger and make sure you count your money in the
privacy of their counter; once you have left you will have forfeited your right
to challenge the exchanged amount if you feel this is not correct. You will be given a short orientation walk around Thamel and you can change money then.
Hotels will
not provide the best exchange rates.
Communications
Continental
calls from your hotel will be expensive, there are many good internet and STD
call centres in Thamel, and these are very good and cost effective.
Taxis
Always use
the small white taxis and ensure the driver will take you ‘on the meter’, once
you arrive at your destination it will be difficult to renegotiate the fare. If
this is your first visit to Nepal and you are unsure of your way around always
take the hotel visiting card with you, this will help the taxi driver get you
back to your hotel.
Rickshaws are also a good means of
transport but insist on ‘Bistari, bistari’ – slowly, slowly, otherwise they can
provide an exciting ride.
Beggars
There are
many charities set up to help the street people of Kathmandu, if you feel you
would like to support these people please contribute to the charity, please do
not give money directly to those in need, the money you give is often misused.
Safety
Kathmandu is
a safe city, but you must be sensible, don’t
provide temptations, don’t open your wallet full of cash in front of
those who have little, don’t keep your wallet in an open back pocket or bag.
Take care of cameras, phones, money and passports etc. Most hotels have safety
deposit boxes, if in doubt use them, although there will be a small charge.
Going out at Night
There many
good restaurants, bars and live music venues around town. Be careful, don’t
leave entertainment venues in a drunken state and wonder off late at night down
dark alleys, keep to the main roads and always go with a friend. Take a torch with you as there is often 'load-shedding'.
Bartering
All tourist goods are up for bartering,
however, please remember that the shop keepers also have to make a living. Essential
supplies, tooth paste, food etc have a fixed price.
Keep a small amount of money in your
pocket to avoid showing all your wealth in front of curious shop keepers or
other vendors, the price will go up!
Load
Sharing
Kathmandu often experiences power cuts,
always take a torch with you if you intend being out after dark. Try to avoid
puddles, they may be only 2 inches deep but they might be 2 feet deep!
The
Pre-Trek Briefing
The following are the
points which you can expect to be covered in the pre-trek briefing provided
before you set off for your 'Off the Wall trekking' trek:
Route
outline – A brief
description of what to expect along your route.
Daily
Routine – Wake up tea
will be brought to you around 6am but as agreed, followed by washing water,
packing, breakfast and departure.
Menus – a brief outline of the food that
might be expected, breakfasts, lunches and evening meals – tea and biscuits
It should be remembered that any food or drinks consumed in tea-houses or lodges
outside of normal meals will be your financial responsibility.
Tents
and camp-craft –
The tents will be erected for you by the trek staff and your main trek luggage will
be placed in an accessible place. On arrival in camp you can identify your gear
and take it to your tent. It is best you keep to the
same tent each night so minimising the loss of equipment that you might have
left in your tent. Tents are waterproof but if the zip is tightened at night
then you will cause condensation that will make all your gear feel damp. Do not
strain the zips always make sure they are fully opened when you enter or leave
the tent.
Lodges - Again your trek crew should arrive at
the lodge before you; however, there may be problems along the trails that
delay them. A hot drink and biscuits will be available on your arrival at the
lodge. Your kit will be taken up to your room. Make sure you keep your torch
with you, it gets dark quickly!
Photography
Avoid taking pictures of
infrastructure, Hydro Power Installations, military installations etc. If you
want to take pictures of people always ask first, if they indicate ‘no’ then please
respect their wishes. On some of the main trekking routes it will be possible
to get batteries recharged for a small fee at the lodges.
Avoid taking pictures of
infrastructure, Hydro Power Installations, military installations etc. If you
want to take pictures of people always ask first, if they indicate ‘no’ then please
respect their wishes. On some of the main trekking routes it will be possible
to get batteries recharged for a small fee at the lodges.
Money - If your entire trek-related expenses
are covered, you will only require money for your luxuries and of course the
porter tips. If you purchase souvenirs along the way you must be prepared to
take responsibility for looking after them or carrying them. The porter loads
are restricted to 15kg for each set of personal luggage, it is always better to
purchase souvenirs on the way back rather than on the way in! Excluding porter
tips 15,000NRs should be sufficient on trek, approximately £150 unless you plan some big spending.
Children – Children along the trail might ask
for pens, sweets or money. Please avoid giving these out as that will create
‘charity dependency’ and become a serious problem. If you have brought items to
Nepal to give to the children please talk to your Guide and he will arrange for
your gifts to go to a local school somewhere along the route of the trek.
Security – All our staff are trustworthy but we
can’t guarantee that for everyone you might meet
on trek. Please take sensible
precautions, don’t leave things lying around, keep rucksacks closed and take
care not to leave things at lodges if you call in for a drink or are staying at
lodges.
Drinking
water – Every day, at meal times, your trek
crew will provide boiled clean drinking water. Please make sure your water
bottles are full. Purchasing mineral water at the lodges will create a problem
with regard to disposing of the plastic bottles, please try to avoid creating a
plastic mountain. Many lodges are now offer a 'refill service' using your own bottle.
You must make sure you drink plenty
during the day as this will help you acclimatise. If you don’t drink plenty
then there is also the chance that you might become dehydrated.
Toilets – A toilet tent[s] will be erected at
the camp site, however, if you are camping in lodge grounds some lodges insist
you use their facilities. On trek if you need to go to the loo please be
environmentally friendly, keep away from buildings, dispose of toilet paper
[usually carefully burn it or carry it out] and bury anything you might leave
behind. Then use your trek hand gel.
Hand-washing water is provided outside
the toilet tents and also a spray disinfectant – please wash your hands and
spray the toilet tent zip. This helps minimise the spread of possible germs.
Use hand gel.
The
Trek – Walking on a normal trekking day
will start from around 7.30 am to take advantage of the clear atmosphere
allowing good views and to avoid the heat of the mid-day sun. There will be
time to stop for rests and photography. Lunch time will be around 11am and
might be pre-packed or cooked on the spot. Your trekking day will end around
mid afternoon allowing time to mix with the Nepali crew, explore the close
locality [please tell someone if you go off to take photographs etc] to rest,
wash clothing or do your journal. Rest days are built into all high altitude
treks when you will go for a short walk to help you acclimatise but you will
then return to the same camp for a second night. There will be plenty of Sherpa
Guides with you to allow you to walk at your own pace.
At
night – Whenever you are away from the tent
secure the door just to prevent unwantedvisitors. At night and before you
settle down take everything into your tent. Sort you sleeping gear out before
it gets dark and always keep a torch handy. Keep your tent ventilated to avoid
condensation, avoid taking drinks into the tent that could get spilled, know where you put things that you might need at night. If you go out of your tent take care not to trip over guy ropes. A pee bottle is a good idea. The same applies if you are in a lodge, but becareful if the toilet floor is wet it could freeze at night making a simple trip to the loo an adventurous excursion!
Daily Routine
You will be woken up in the morning with
a hot drink, at a suitable time arranged with you the previous evening. Shortly
after that a bowl of warm washing water will be brought round to your tent. If
you don’t want the washing water then please tell a member of the trek crew,
this will help conserve fuel.
Once you have finished with the mug and
the bowl please leave it in an appropriate place for the boys to collect.
After you have washed, it is essential
that you pack your day sack and your trek bag. As soon as the trek bag is ready
leave it in an appropriate place so the porters can collect it and get their
loads sorted out for their day’s work.
Remember once your trek bag leaves you
will not have access to it until you arrive at the next camp site/lodge so all
essentials you might need during the walk you should carry in your day-sack.
After packing go for breakfast (make sure you don’t leave anything in the tent or the room if you are on a lodge trek). Immediately after breakfast you will set off on your day’s walk.
Lunch will be taken around mid way
through your day’s journey and it will consist of a packed lunch or a hot meal
prepared along the way.
You will arrive in camp or at the lodge
mid to late afternoon; your pack might not arrive until a little later so make
sure you have a warm fleece or jacket in your day sack.
On arrival in camp or at the lodge a
warm drink and biscuits will be available; you will then have a little time to
take in the beauty of your surroundings or to write your journal.
While it is still light it is best to
prepare your sleeping space making sure you have plenty of insulation under
your sleeping bag.
It is suggested that after your food
you go to bed to make the best of the heat the meal generates.
Before you finally settle down make
sure you keep your torch handy in case of an emergency or a quick trip to the
loo.
If you zip your tent tightly shut you
risk the chance of condensation forming over night and this will make your
sleeping bag damp
Tipping
Many of our porter boys only get paid
for the work they do, when there is no work or it is out of season then they
must make do with what income they have generated during the season. They will
appreciate your generosity!
To save embarrassment all round it is a
good idea to place the trek tips in an envelope so as to keep it confidential
and then hand it to the boys personally, they will appreciate that. So take
enough envelopes with you to enable you to do this. It is best if one of the
trekkers volunteers to distribute the tips rather than asking the Guide to do
this.
Some porters will not be completing the
whole trek with you. These are ‘local’ porters who are part of the team but as
the food gets eaten and the load weight is reduced these guys return to their
villages.
When they leave they would like to
think they will get tipped at that time.
If a porter or Sherpa Guide has looked
after you particularly well then it is expected that you provide a special and
personal tip at the end of the day, carrying your rucksack if you are tired or
even more directly helping you always warrants a tip! If the porter has
consistently looked after you during the trek you might want to enhance his tip
personally at the end. If you feel like giving a porter something do it
privately so as not to upset other staff.
At the end of your trek your Guide will
provide a bag for you to donate unwanted clothing or other gear that you might
not be planning to take home. This will then be shared out amongst the porter
staff. Don’t worry about the fact that you might have worn it all trek, the staff
will wash it and put it to good use.
What happens in the case of a Rescue or
a early return from trek?
In the event of you suffering from any
health problems that prevent you from continuing on trek then all expenses
related to that incident will be your responsibility.
The trek doctor, or Trek Leader has the final word on this matter.
A helicopter might be required to
airlift you back to Kathmandu but your trek equipment might not fly with you
due to weight restrictions. You will be expected to pay for this service or
guarantee your insurance company will pay before you leave Nepal. When you
return to the UK you should liaise with your insurance company for the
reimbursement of all related charges.
If you have to walk out from a trek
then you will be expected to cover all lodge costs. As your equipment will go
with you a porter who will also act as your guide will also be your financial responsibility.
Trek camping and cooking equipment
can’t be taken from the main trek team as this would cause logistical problems.
Once you have arrived back in Kathmandu
an ambulance will meet you at the airport and take you to get checked out at
the clinic. Both the ambulance charge and the clinic charges are your
responsibility – without the official medical report your insurance company
will not consider your claim.
You might also have additional expenses
in the form of telephone calls from the trek lodges, helicopter landing fees,
or even additional nights in a lodge while waiting for a helicopter to arrive
in the case of bad weather.
Our Kathmandu staff will support you in
every way they can, including making any arrangements that might be required
but, all the financial implications are your responsibility which must be
settled before leaving Nepal.
When your trekking group returns from
trek you will rejoin them and the itinerary and at that time your costs will
again be covered by 'Off the Wall trekking' as part of your agreed itinerary.
It should be noted that at the height
of the season it might not be possible to re-book your original hotel. In that
case you will get booked into a different hotel but your stored luggage will be
transferred to you.
It should also be noted that despite
the fact you might not want to alarm your family and therefore prefer to keep
contact to a minimum in the case of illness, it is our experience that the news often gets through to
the UK, even if from another trek colleague who contacts his/her family.
First hand information is always the
best policy!
If due to
health reasons you have to be evacuated you will have to satisfy the helicopter
company that the flight costs will be covered by your insurance company. In
most cases a trekking insurance company will confirm this by email, fax or
phone. Communication with your insurance company will be done by one of our 'Off
the Wall trekking' staff in Kathmandu. The same situation will apply
to all your medical treatment expenses. You are also responsible for all hotels
costs, food and living expenses until your trek return date.
At the time of writing the costs for an
emergency helicopter evacuation could be as high as 8,000 US$ depending how far
in flight time your trek is from Kathmandu. (2500$ per flying hour)
Your
trek emergency equipment
Your trek equipment might contain a Hyperbaric Bag, a ‘gammo bag’ if it is a long trek at altitude; this is a
pressurisation chamber which will be used in an emergency in case of serious
AMS. During the early stages of the trek your Guide will show you and explain
how the gammo bag works. This piece of kit might save your life in an emergency,
please be familiar with its use and even get in it for a short while to
experience the situation.
Your group will also carry a first aid kit on all treks. Please note the first aid kit also contains a
copy of First Aid and Wilderness Medicines.
Trek
Health
Drinking Water - It is an essential aid to keeping
healthy to drink plenty of water. Not only does this keep your body flushed out
but, it is essential to avoid dehydration and the onset of AMS. Always ask your
Guide if the water is ‘European friendly’, never drink water that has not been
treated, never drink local water – keep your stomach healthy. Always clean your
teeth in treated water.
Diarrhoea - Diarrhoea can also ruin your trek as
well as making you feel very weak. You are bound to experience some form of
disturbance to your digestive system purely because of the travel, change of
diet and atmosphere. However, by simply maintaining a good standard of personal
hygiene you can greatly reduce the chance of catching any bacteria that may be
going around. Take particular care with washing your hands after using the
toilet and before eating. Beware of the effects of dehydration and inform the doctor, leader or Guide if you have any
concerns.
There will always be clean and treated
hand-washing water outside the mess tent – please use it! We also suggest that
you use hand gel.
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)
Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)
AMS is very common at high altitude.
The occurrence of AMS is dependent upon the elevation, the rate of ascent, and
individual susceptibility. Many people will experience mild AMS during the
acclimatisation process. The symptoms usually start 12 to 24 hours after
arrival at altitude and begin to decrease in severity around the third day if
the correct procedures are followed.
The
symptoms of Mild AMS include:
Headache
Nausea & Dizziness
Loss of appetite
Fatigue
Shortness of breath
Disturbed sleep
General feeling of malaise
Symptoms tend to be worse at night and
when respiratory drive is decreased. But, generally subside within two to four
days as the body acclimatises. When trekking, it is essential that you
communicate any symptoms of illness immediately to others in your group
especially the trek doctor, group leader or Guide.
Acclimatisation days are built into
your trek itinerary. Ensure you drink plenty of water – but not from the
streams!
Lake
Louise Score (LLS) for the diagnosis of Acute Mountain Sickness
Sometimes 'Off the Wall trekking' monitors altitude fitness using the AMS
Check Sheet. This will be provided separately by the Guide or trek leader on
the rest days. Please complete this when going above 3,500m and as requested.
Once completed and signed please hand
it back to the Guide on each appropriate occasion.
Please note the Guide and trek leader
have the final word on your ability to go higher or in the event of evacuation.
They are trained, experienced and qualified – please do not argue with them. If
you do then your insurance could be regarded as null and void.
Treatment of AMS
Descent - There is really
no magic altitude to descend to. This is the altitude to which the body is
adjusted. Patients with High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema need to descend slowly
and with assistance: excessive exertion even during descent may increase the
blood flow to the lungs and exacerbate the problem. The
trek medical kit contains Diamox that helps the body to adjust to altitude; it
does not mask the symptoms but aids the process. If you carry your own Diamox
please do not start taking it without first talking to the doctor, leader or Guide.
Once you embark on Diamox you should continue to take it for the next three days or until you have
descended to the same height.
Side effects of Diamox are: an uncomfortable tingling of the fingers, toes and face
(called "jhum jhum" in Nepali); carbonated drinks tasting flat;
excessive urination; and rarely, blurring of vision. In most of the treks in
Nepal, gradual ascent is possible and prophylatically taking Diamox tends to be
discouraged. Certainly if you develop a headache and nausea or the other
symptoms of AMS, then treatment with Diamox is fine. The treatment dosage is
250mg twice a day until you descend to the same altitude as you started taking
Diamox. Take your afternoon tablet around 4pm so as to try to avoid the diuretic effect during the night.
Hypothermia is a rapid cooling down of
the body core temperature. By the time you display signs of hypothermia your
body will have cooled to a dangerously low temperature. It is important that
you keep warm, carry a spare sweater, fleece or preferably a down jacket in
your day sack – you will appreciate it when the sun goes down or if the weather
suddenly changes
Daily
Briefings
Your Guide will, at the end of each day
give you a briefing about the following day’s activities. He will also check by
asking you if you feel OK. Please be honest and tell the truth, take the Guide
to one side if you have a problem mentioning issues in front of others.
Remember that 'Off the Wall trekking' Guides can do most things but they
can’t help if they don’t know.
Administration
Please note that 'Off the Wall trekking' will need to confirm your return flights
before you get back from trek it is important that you hand both a copy of your
passport and your international flight ticket to a member of the staff before
you leave for trek.
Please confirm with a member of the 'Off the Wall trekking' staff any
extension details that you might have.
If you have any valuables that you
might want to leave in the hotel’s safety deposit box please see the Hotel
Reception staff – you will be responsible for the box key and there is a $100
charge for its loss and subsequent breaking into the box. Only the signatory
will be able to get access to the box so if you share be warned the box will
not be opened unless you are the signatory or you have the key.
If you wish to leave some of your
luggage in the hotel store then please notify a member of the staff so this can
be arranged.
Health Warning
Remember the mountains are one of the
great wonders of the world; however, they can also be dangerous. While 'Off the Wall trekking' takes every
precaution to ensure your safety we are unable to provide a written
‘guarantee’. It is very important that you accept your responsibility to be
fully fit for your trek, to ensure you have the correct equipment and that you
understand the environment into which you are going to trek. Our staff are not
telepathic and you must communicate any concerns you might have while on trek
about health or other matters or they won’t be able to help.
You should have declared any health
issues you might have before commencing your trek, however, if you are still
concerned please mention it to and Guide.
'Off the Wall trekking' are able to hire down clothing for you
in Kathmandu if, at the last minute, you feel a down-jacket might be a good
piece of kit to take on trek.
UK.
While
on Trek
Your trek
might be either based on a ‘lodge trek’ or a ‘camping trek’, either way your
trekking crew will be structured in a similar manner. If you stay in lodges
your daily routine will be similar with the exception that you will not have a
catering team, you will eat in the lodges from the lodge menu.
The Sirdar – The Sirdar is the ‘Boss’ and his role is that of trek
manager. He ensures all the porters work according to the trek program; they
arrive at camp/lodge on time and leave/strike camp on time. He liaises with the
cook team and the Sherpa Guides. In the event of your trek not having a
European leader he will liaise between the clients and the trek staff.
Sherpa Guides – These staff generally trek with the clients and make sure
everything goes according to plan and that everyone is happy and that they
don’t get lost. One of these sherpa-guides will carry the group first aid kit
at all times.
Porters – These staff are the ‘Eddie Stobarts’ of trek and of Nepal.
Their role is to move logistics from one camp site to the next. However, once
they set off in the morning you rarely see them again until you arrive in camp
or at the lodge in the afternoon. So don’t expect to access your main luggage
during the day’s trek. Carry your daily needs with you in your day sack.
Chef – He
is the main man in charge of and responsible for all the catering requirements
and kitchen equipment. He oversees the preparation of meals and supervises the
kitchen boys. He is responsible for the catering in the mess-tent and
organising meal times. The chef will often walk with the clients for part of
the day acting as a Sherpa Guide.
Cook Boys – These are the junior chefs, they prepare the food and in
many cases are responsible for cooking it under the supervision of the chef.
They also act as the porters of the kitchen equipment
Come back to Nepal, be back on the trail.. you know you'll enjoy yourselves!
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